
XpatAthens
Exploring The Vineyards Around Athens
Ktima Kokotou
Ktima Kokotou is a lovely estate surrounded by nature, 23 km north of Athens. It was created by George and Anne Kokotos in 1980, and if you’re lucky you will be shown around by Anne, who is English and passionate about wine. The estate is known for its elegant and sophisticated produce. Wines that you must try: their flawless Savatiano, their elegant Chardonnay, and the award-winning Kokotos Estate Red.
Address: Kokotos Estate, Stamata, 145 75
Telephone: 210 8145113
Note: Wheelchair Accessible
Papagiannakos Winery
Vasilis Papagiannakos is the first winemaker in Greece to have built a bioclimatic winery, designed by award-winning architect Elena Stavropoulou. The building is beautiful and impressive, with lots of wood and big windows overlooking the vineyards. Wines here are very modern and popular on the export markets. Must try: a meaty Savatiano from old vines, an ultra-modern version of Retsina, and a truly impressive rosé called Granatus.
Address: Pythagora, Markopoulo, 190 03
Telephone: 22990 25206
Note: Wheelchair Accessible
Mylonas Winery
This proud-to-be-small winery was created in 1917 and is currently run by three Mylonas brothers who have made a name for themselves as ambassadors of the Savatiano grape. Winemaker Stamatis Mylonas doesn’t need much convincing to put together a vertical tasting of his Savatiano wines, proving what an exciting varietal this is. Also, unmissable is his steely Assyrtiko.
Address: 3 Ippokratous, Keratea, 190 01
Telephone: 22990 68156
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FokiaNou Art Space: Creatures and Visages
Dates & Hours
The show opens Thursday, 22 October, 16.00-21.00
Tuesday to Saturday 17.00 - 20.00.
Movers & Shakers: Meet The Corona Nomads Of Athens
Athens has been rising as a destination for digital nomads for several years now, with people of all types of professions, from artists to web developers and online marketers, deciding that the Greek capital offers a winning combination of climate, quality of life, and low cost of living. When Covid-19 struck Europe, Greece was acknowledged as one of the countries to have handled the outbreak best; the early and strict lockdown kept cases low—and as of now, Greece still has much fewer fatalities than other EU countries of comparable size.
In March, she left London and returned to Nottingham to spend the lockdown with her family. Isabella is half Greek, half English but grew up in the UK, taking holidays to Greece. When her late grandmother's flat in Koukaki became available in July, she jumped at the opportunity. "Dancers can't sit still, we have to keep training," says Isabella. "After being cooped up in the UK, here I have space to train at home with the free classes that dance schools and teachers have been putting online."
The Playwright Searching For A Muse—Ben Jacobs
Like Isabella, Ben, 32, works in an industry decimated by coronavirus: tourism. As a self-employed London tour guide, he ushered groups around the capital daily, passionately sharing stories and interacting with visitors from all over the world.
"London is great for making money, meeting people and going to events," he says. "But now, with so few tourists, I can't make anywhere near what I used to; while London is still as expensive as it has always been." Reluctant to face a long and dreary British winter and the significant restrictions on indoor spaces, Ben's thoughts turned to Athens, particularly its lively outdoor art scene.
"Lockdown has forced everything outdoors and that's far less restricting in an outdoors culture like Athens," he says. Aside from being a tour guide, Ben is also a writer and playwright, with several works currently in progress. Rather than burning through his savings paying rent in London—or switching careers—he decided to relocate to Athens to make his money stretch much further. He arrived in mid-September, just as new lockdowns arrived elsewhere across Europe.
"I've definitely got enough work to keep me busy here," he says. "Athens is now a throbbing and passionate metropolis; a lively stage on the edge of Europe. There's tonnes of inspiration here to create and perform new work."
To read more, please visit This is Athens
Whether you've just arrived in town – or have been here for years – Athens always has new secrets to share! This is Athens is the official guide to this captivating city of ancient energies and booming urban culture. Compiled by a team of specialist local writers, This is Athens brings you an authentic and intimate portrait of a living Athens beyond the guidebooks – along with daily curated listings of all the best events and great weekend inspiration all-year round. From must-know neighbourhoods and emerging art hubs, to gourmet hotspots, cool shopping and the buzziest bars, This is Athens will help you to get the most out of living in Athens!
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A Local’s Guide To Keramikos
Rebecca Camhi moved to Keramikos in 2008, long before the gentrification of this gritty, graffiti-lined neighbourhood kicked in. She lives in a sky-blue townhouse that doubles as a gallery and design shop, selling one-of-a-kind ceramics, jewellery, kaftans and cushions. “The area is changing rapidly,” says Camhi. “It’s full of incredible abandoned buildings that are ripe for restoration.” Slowly, these derelict houses and mid-century apartments are being converted into galleries, workshops, bars and restaurants, popping up among the Egyptian hookah bars, no-frills Cretan meze joints, and Chinese grocers. “Visiting artists love the area,” says Camhi. “It’s fresh and different, edgy, scruffy, and even a little seedy in parts, not so exposed to tourists. It’s also one of the most diverse neighbourhoods in Athens, opening up an exciting new chapter in the city’s history.”
Galleries
Take a day to wander around the galleries in Keramikos. A couple of blocks from my gallery, The Breeder is a beautiful space designed by the architect Aris Zambikos and the shows are just as cool. Atopos CVC is a multi-disciplinary space in a neoclassical building and there’s always lots going on there. The Municipal Art Gallery, once a silk factory, is home the city’s modern art collection. Most galleries are closed Sunday and Monday and some spaces are only open by appointment, so check before you go.
Seychelles
I always take visitors to this restaurant and they always love it. In the summer, you can sit outside on Platia Avdi, a huge square that’s the heart of the neighbourhood. Be patient; you may have a long wait for your food, but it will be worth it. They serve Greek dishes with a twist, including an amazing selection of Greek cheeses. Seychelles is open for lunch or dinner but do book ahead—it’s packed even on a Monday night. You can always have a drink at Ble Papagalos, a café-bar across the square, while you’re waiting for a table.
Address: 49 Keramikou, Keramikos, 104 36
Telephone: 211 1834789
Tamarind
After a week of feta and grilled fish, you might be in the mood for something spicier. This cosy, unpretentious Thai place, run by the lovely Angela, has great atmosphere and service. The green curries are divine.
Address: 51 Keramikou, Keramikos, 104 36
Telephone: 210 5225945
Chorologie
This fantastic dance school is run by professional dancers and choreographers with international careers. You can take ballet, jazz and contemporary dance lessons with incredible views of the Parthenon from the studio. If you’re into dance, also check out the Arroyo Nuevo flamenco school nearby, a beautiful loft space in an old car-repair shop.
Address: 76 Peiraios, Keramikos, 104 35
Telephone: 210 5231060
Sto Vathos Kipos
If you’re renting a place with a kitchen, stock up on organic produce at this cute, bright orange store run by two brothers, Loukas and Stefanos Skoulikaris. I do all my grocery shopping here. Look out for the organic loaves from Betty’s Bread. The name of the shop means 'garden at the rear', and there really is a secret garden behind the shop. If you’re into fresh, local produce, do check out the farmer’s market every Tuesday.
Address: 99 Keramikou, Keramikos, 104 35
Telephone: 213 0235776
Latraac Skate Park
This skate bowl has a little café in the yard that does a really good Sunday brunch. You can eat poached eggs and pancakes while you watch the skaters showing off. This unique spot in Athens is the brainchild of architect Zachos Varfis, who designed Athens' first skate bowl using floor wood from an old building and site debris. Latraac frequently hosts DJ sets and you never know which famous skateboarder you'll find whirling on its track.
Address: 63-64 Leonidou, Keramikos, 104 35
Telephone: 213 0453377
This content was originally published on This is Athens
A Local’s Guide To Petralona
Petralona, and especially its upper half of Ano Petralona, is a neighbourhood often quoted as an example of contemporary Athenian gentrification. However, this is far from the truth since Ano Petralona always was, and remains, a charming residential area. Built on the foot of the Philopappou Hill hugging the Acropolis, below the ancient settlement of Koile, Ano Petralona has a truly Athenian vibe. This is why the addresses worth visiting are those with a neighbourhood feel, rather than the faux traditional joints that have sprung up in the last few years.
Oikonomou
Arguably the neighbourhood’s bedrock, it is an institution which has been going strong for almost a century. Although the eponymous Mr. Oikonomou still lives above the restaurant, business has been in the hands of the colourful Mr. Kostas Diamandis for two decades—a "they don’t make ‘em like they used to” Greek, with a dry sense of humour and a big, kind heart. In the open kitchen, the female cook, Garyfallia, dishes out no-nonsense family fare such as roast baby lamb with waxy-lemony potatoes, rabbit casserole, or stuffed cabbage leaves (beef and rice) in a silky egg and lemon (avgolemono) sauce. Don’t be shy to ask for wine from the “reserve” barrel in the basement, and make sure you try some of the amber-red quince preserve Kostas makes himself, for dessert.
Address: 32 Kydantidon, Ano Petralona, 118 51
Telephone: 210 3467555
Blue Bamboo
Much more than your average round-the-corner Thai, this is a place for rubbing elbows (the larger tables/benches are for sharing) with some cool characters from the Athenian arty milieu. Well-heeled customers from the northern suburbs also tend to flock here in search of neighbourhood authenticity and always end up paying a little more than they expected mainly because of the nice cocktails. (The wine list is in fact quite uninspired.) The food is always good and consistent. Sit at the bar and watch the action unfold in the open kitchen right behind, as a tableau vivant. Specials include elegantly presented red and green curries, a mean larb gai (shredded chicken and mint salad), and a very reliable Pad Thai.
Address: 24 Kydantidon, Petralona, 118 51
Telephone: 210 3423124
Zefyros Cinema
One of Athens' oldest and most loved open-air cinemas, with a recurring repertoire of neo-realist, nouvelle vague and even Soviet classics. It doesn’t have the Acropolis view of the famous Thissio cinema nearby, but it doesn’t attract so many tourists either. If you want to feel like a true Athenian, come here on the warmest night and drink beer under the stars. Never mind if you have watched what’s on before—that’s beside the point.
Address: 36 Troon, Petralona, 118 51
Telephone: 210 3462677
Klouvi
The coolest of the area’s bars, this 'cage' as it’s named in Greek, is a neighbourhood dive that somehow managed to get a full revamp without losing its relaxed attitude. Don’t let the unfussy crowd fool you: the bartenders here are quite crafty with cocktails. Try the potent Negroni for a generous aperitif. If you don’t mind the indoor smoking, this is also a good option to hit the bar later in the evening for a nightcap, after dining in the neighbourhood’s various eateries.
Address: 21 Kydantidon, Petralona, 118 51
Telephone: 210 3479998
Chryssa
The 'grande dame' of Petralona, Mrs. Chryssa, used to run the best (and only) sophisticated restaurant of Ano Petralona, before it was cool. Following the lifestyle curve to nearby Keramikos, she moved her business to that grungier neighbourhood—only to return to Ano Petralona a couple of years ago. This time her restaurant is smaller and less ambitious, but she still offers a decent alternative to most commonplace tavernas nearby, with her gentle manners and light touch. Her best sellers include an elegant rendering of the chicken souvlaki, fava with capers and sun-dried tomato, and homemade cheesecake with honey.
Address: 40 Eoleon, Petralona, 118 52
Telephone: 213 0356879
To Theio Tragi
This self-proclaimed 'punk bistro' serves food as creative (if slightly over-complicated) as the term suggests. (The restaurant’s name literally translates as “The Holy Billy Goat”, borrowed from a poem by Yiannis Skarimbas.) If all that sounds a little too hip, bear in mind that the establishment is well priced and the innovative menu is short and changes regularly. A little stuffy in the summer, it is a nice option for a date on a winter night, with a glass of wine by an independent Greek producer at the bar, and some 'punk’d' dishes (like organic chicken with banana, chestnut and sage or custard with sharp Naxos cheese, caramel and almonds) to share.
Address: 36 Kydantidon, Petralona, 118 51
Telephone: 210 3410296
This content was originally published on This is Athens
Glyfada Maritime Golf Event 2020: The 1st Maritime Tournament Of The Year With Absolute Safety
The first tournament attracted the interest of the Greek and world shipping industry as its senior executives formed teams of four taking part in a shotgun scramble tournament, in a completely safe and ideal environment. A green space, set in a landscape of low hills, large trees, and low Mediterranean vegetation. The golfers competed at a team level, at the international standards 18-hole, par 72, Golf Course of Glyfada.
Photo Credit: Boo Productions
Greece Dominates Condé Nast Traveler's List Of Europe's Best Islands
To read this article in full, please visit: greekcitytimes.com
Ancient Vibes in Contemporary Ceramics
Joy Labinjo: The Elephant in the Room
Labinjo created this new body of work while under lockdown in the UK in the crucible of mass protests around Black Lives Matter. Fresh and arresting, her creations echo her dual identity: growing up Black, British, Nigerian in the 90s and early Noughties. You’ll see these intimate paintings, alongside works Labinjo made on paper in Athens while participating in The Breeder’s Open Studio program - where visitors were able to meet the artist and observe her in action.
Dates & Hours
Tuesday – Friday 12.00-20.00; Saturday 12.00-18.00