XpatAthens

XpatAthens

Thursday, 15 October 2020 23:16

Yes To Shipping Forum 2020

YES to Shipping Forum 2020 will be part of Posidonia Web Forums Week through YES FORUM Facebook page on Thursday 29th October 2020, from 18.00 to 21.00 hrs, in the Greek language. Young people studying, willing to pursue a career or already working in shipping / traveling onboard, distinguished executives from the whole spectrum of the maritime cluster, prestigious academics, representatives of Μinistries, Μerchant Μarine Academies and Shipping Organisations will be there to exchange their views and opinions about the future the challenges of the Greek Shipping Industry.

Since the 1st YES to Shipping Forum 2016 more than 1,000 questions have been answered by shipping stakeholders participating in YES FORUM physical and virtual events. This year, they will not be the only ones answering the concerns of the young generation. The next generation of the Greek Shipping Industry will receive questions from the distinguished speakers that will be invited! Stay tuned and watch the dialogue…. the other way around!
Tuesday, 29 September 2020 14:47

Walk With An Athenian

Want to experience Athens like a local – with a local? “This is Athens with a Local” lets you get under the skin of Athens and discover all the city has to offer on a free themed walk. Choose from a diverse community of volunteer storytellers: all happy to spill their insider secrets and favourite urban hangouts.

Thousands visit Athens every day, but few get the chance to experience Athens like a local. Meet our community of locals and follow in their footsteps, discovering hidden treasures and places of interest. What do Athenians do in their spare time, and how do they balance their careers and personal lives? When and where do they go out? A community of savvy Athenians will answer all your questions and help you navigate the city. People of diverse backgrounds offer their perspective on what makes Athens so irresistible and unique.

Choose a themed walk with a local and get to know Athens as an insider. Experience the real Athenian lifestyle and explore the places you won't find in any tourist guides.

Here are some of our favourite "This is Athens with a Local" walks:

Surf Athens With A Local

Athens is a city of contradictions, where the past meets the present in imperfect harmony. Beyond the famous ancient monuments, there is a modern metropolis that's easy to discover on foot. A local will show you how it really feels to live in Athens, by exploring their favourite haunts and unravelling the hidden secrets of this ever-changing city.

Explore Athens Architecture With A Local

Understand the evolution of Athens through its architecture, with the help of a local insider. Scattered all over the Greek capital are ruins, monuments and landmarks that reveal many layers of history. From elaborate government buildings to Byzantine churches, Bauhaus apartments and contemporary landmarks, the architecture of Athens reveals fascinating stories of migration and gentrification.

Check Out LGBT+ Athens With A Local

Athens is often hailed as the birthplace of democracy, but it was also the birthplace of gay culture. Openly practiced and celebrated, homosexuality was part of the social fabric of ancient Athens. Today, the Greek capital remains a very gay-friendly city, with countless gay and lesbian bars, many openly gay celebrities, and a vibrant LGBT+ community. Your local will introduce you to the LGBT+ scene, including cafes, bars, and beaches, as well as suggestions for drag shows and nightlife.

To read more, please visit This is Athens

Whether you've just arrived in town – or have been here for years – Athens always has new secrets to share! This is Athens is the official guide to this captivating city of ancient energies and booming urban culture. Compiled by a team of specialist local writers, This is Athens brings you an authentic and intimate portrait of a living Athens beyond the guidebooks – along with daily curated listings of all the best events and great weekend inspiration all-year round. From must-know neighbourhoods and emerging art hubs, to gourmet hotspots, cool shopping and the buzziest bars, This is Athens will help you to get the most out of living in Athens!

Thank you This is Athens for your contribution as an XpatAthens Partner.


Wednesday, 14 October 2020 12:34

Fun Things To Do In Athens With Teenagers

As any parent of teenagers knows, you’re only ever as happy as your least happy teen. That goes double for family holidays. We come to the rescue with a curated guide to some of the best teen-pleaser experiences in Athens, no matter what mood you’re up against.

Olympic Games Workout

How to make your teen zone out? Take them on a traditional sight-seeing tour where they get talked at for hours on end. Do you prefer to see them engaged and enjoying themselves? Sign them up for a 2-hour Olympic Games Workout that combines history with the right amount of physical challenges to teach you about the Olympic Games, both ancient and modern. The kids will love the end game: running on the epic Panathenaic track at the world’s only all-marble stadium, the birthplace of the modern Olympics.

Malakasa Adventure Park

It’s hard to be all moany and shruggy when you’re flying from tree to tree fifteen metres above the ground. If city fatigue has set in, this adventure park is one of the most enjoyable family days out in Athens. The park is an addictive network of Tarzan swings and zip slides laid out over 50 acres of forest, about 40 minutes north of the city-centre, divided into age-appropriate skill levels. It’s lovely and cool in the summer and in the wintertime, you’ll appreciate the alpine atmosphere. You can buy coffee and drinks, but there are no food facilities, so bring along some snacks. Picnic among the pines on wooden benches, or stop off at one of the traditional tavernas in Malakasa town, a few minutes away.

Water Sports on the Athens Riviera

Does your teen believe they can walk on water? From May to early October, put them to the test with a stand-up paddleboard session at Yasurfaki water sports club. Located inside Varkiza resort, one of the biggest—and cleanest—organised sandy beaches on the Athens Riviera, Yasurfaki has been a massive hit with local families and is. Yasurfaki offers all kinds of watersports, such as windsurfing, wakeboarding, and banana boats. Out of the water, there’s plenty to amuse your brood while you get your vitamin sea: beach volleyball, outdoor gyms, teen-cuisine like pizzas, burgers and souvlaki, and beach bars with summery DJ sets. You’ll pay an entrance fee of about €5-7 to access Varkiza Resort; extra for the watersports.

Museum of Illusions

Disappear down the rabbit hole at this small but fascinating novelty museum where nothing is what it seems. Perfectly-pitched for the Insta-generation, your teens will love putting their own filters and spin on some of the most popular illusions such as the Upside Down Room and the Head on a Plate. They’ll also pick up a lesson or two on vision, perception and the science of the human brain. Even though there’s probably only enough here to spend an hour or so, but the museum is located in a lively part of Athens that’s worth exploring afterwards. A little shop by the exit sells brain teasers and puzzles.

The Mind Trap

Tick tock, you’re on the clock. You have just 60 minutes to puzzle it out and escape from whatever deadly mission you’ve signed up for. Teens love the adrenaline rush of escape rooms, where they must work in small teams to crack clues and riddles during a dramatic scenario inspired by anything from Breaking Bad to Game of Thrones. Downtown Athens has several venues hosting daily escape room sessions in English. At The Mind Trap, which has branches in Monastiraki and Kolonaki, rebellious teens will get a kick out of playing “anti-hero” in the Ebola room: the goal is to release the killer virus before getting arrested.

Athens Street Art Tour

Teens are naturally drawn to the subversive energy of graffiti, and Athens has one of the hottest street art scenes in Europe. Find out the difference between “tagging” and “bombing” while you encounter some of the capital’s coolest neighbourhoods. Your guide Nikos is the real deal: a local painter, graphic designer and street artist himself. On this excellent 3-hour tour, he’ll reveal the political and social meanings, and hidden messages behind Athens street art—including ‘All Dogs go to Heaven’, a mural tribute to Loukaniko, the stray dog who loved to tag along on political demonstrations.

Latraac Skate Park

Impress your kids with your local street cred by taking them to this happening skate park in the Keramikos neighbourhood. Latraac—an experimental social space built by Greek skater and architect Zachos Varfis—has become ground zero for the Athens skate scene. Hidden from the street behind metal gates, it has the thrill of an insider secret. Even if you don’t have access to a skateboard, Latraac makes for brilliant street theatre: watch bowl contests or hard-core skaters perfect their moves on the laser-cut plywood bowl. Or soak up the creative buzz of the many artists and musicians who hang out here. Setting Latraac apart from other skate parks in the city is a hip bar and café where you can settle in and enjoy the show. They do a great weekend brunch, including pancakes, toasties and scrambled eggs.

To read more, please visit This is Athens

Whether you've just arrived in town – or have been here for years – Athens always has new secrets to share! This is Athens is the official guide to this captivating city of ancient energies and booming urban culture. Compiled by a team of specialist local writers, This is Athens brings you an authentic and intimate portrait of a living Athens beyond the guidebooks – along with daily curated listings of all the best events and great weekend inspiration all-year round. From must-know neighbourhoods and emerging art hubs, to gourmet hotspots, cool shopping and the buzziest bars, This is Athens will help you to get the most out of living in Athens!

Thank you This is Athens for your contribution as an XpatAthens Partner.


Tuesday, 06 October 2020 10:22

A Local’s Guide To Thissio

Hills dotted with ancient ruins, sun-soaked brunches – and a front row seat to the Parthenon. Local resident Alex King explains why Thissio is hard to beat.

Every neighbourhood in Athens lucky enough to have a view of the Acropolis thinks that theirs is the best in the city. But you really can’t beat Thissio to appreciate the majesty of the Parthenon. My favourite thing about living here is walking up the footpath behind the Church of St. Marina and past the National Observatory of Athens up to Pnyx Hill (just the birthplace of democracy, you know…), where you’re greeted with a spectacular perspective on the entire ancient city.

While most views of Athens reveal a sun-bleached concrete jungle, from this tree-lined summit you see how the historical centre is really a green island. After a long day exploring the city, venturing up at sunset is a great way to unwind. If you ever grow tired of staring down on the Propylaea, the main entrance to the Acropolis, and the temple of Athena Nike, you can always turn around and look out towards the sea, Piraeus harbour, the ships coming to and fro, and the islands that dot the horizon.

The Underdog

This is one of the best brunch spots in Athens. It has the wide range of painstakingly-sourced coffee options you would expect from the best third wave coffee shops, from single origin blends to ethically-sourced brews. In a beautiful restored neoclassical building, it’s the perfect start to a day exploring the neighbourhood on foot. Pedestrianised Iraklidon Street leads to the city’s ancient fortifications and is lined with restaurants, bars and greenery.

Address: 8 Iraklidon, Thissio, 118 51
Telephone: 213 0365393

Mikra Asia

A personal favourite, this cute little taverna serves meze (small sharing plates) inspired by Greek cuisine from Asia Minor (Mikra Asia in Greek). Occupying a tranquil spot on pedestrianised Iraklidon Street, this laid back and great value eatery really is a community hub. Highlights include the roasted peppers and flogeres, pastry cigars filled with cheese and covered in honey.

Address: 23 Iraklidon, Thissio, 118 51
Telephone: 211 1847609

To Steki Tou Ilia

One of Thissio’s best kept secrets is the pedestrianised Thessalonikis Street, which begins at Agios Athanasios church. With stellar meat dishes, To Steki tou Ilia appeals to committed carnivores—and is famous for its lamb chops by the kilo. Tables are set in the church yard and stretch along the pavement in summer. Cafe Loux just along the street is great if you’re just looking for drinks or a nightcap to wash down all your overindulgences.

Address: 5 Eptachalkou, Thissio, 118 51
Telephone: 210 3458052

Gevomai Kai Magevomai

This charming family-run taverna is another pillar of the neighbourhood—the place where locals celebrate anything from birthdays to christenings. The ever-changing menu is personally sourced by the family and the spirits are always free flowing. It’s also one of the few good indoor options in Thissio; so if it’s a rare rainy day or you need to escape the heat for some air-conditioned cool, this is a solid choice.

Address: 11 Nileos, Thissio, 118 51
Telephone: 210 3452802

Skales Kafeneio

The heart of Thissio is the little square where Nileos, Iraklidon, Akamantos and Apostolou Pavlou Streets come together. You’ll find tourists and Athenians rubbing shoulders long into the night at the restaurants and kafeneia (cafés) that surround the square. Slightly hidden down some steps, this is a typical local kafeneio that serves up great coffee and spirits, with tasty snacks—like tirokafteri (spicy cheese dip), fava or dakos. Just be careful about making plans afterwards, because sitting down for a quick drink here often turns into hours of boozy discussion with friends and locals.

Address: 2 Akamantos,Thissio, 118 513
Telephone: 210 3465647


This content was originally published on This is Athens

Whether you’ve just arrived in town – or have been here for years – Athens always has new secrets to share! This is Athens is the official guide to this captivating city of ancient energies and booming urban culture. Compiled by a team of specialist local writers, This is Athens brings you an authentic and intimate portrait of a living Athens beyond the guidebooks – along with daily curated listings of all the best events and great weekend inspiration all-year round. From must-know neighbourhoods and emerging art hubs, to gourmet hotspots, cool shopping and the buzziest bars, This is Athens will help you to get the most out of living in Athens!

Thank you This is Athens for your contribution as an XpatAthens Partner.

Thursday, 01 October 2020 15:17

Take An Audio Odyssey To Athens - Stephen Fry

A city without stories is like a theatre without a stage. In Athens, stories are everywhere: whispered in ancient streets and mythical corners; imprinted on historic hilltops where the great philosophers held court; shared boisterously in the doorways and squares of this ever-changing modern metropolis. Welcome to our new 6-part podcast series where we invite stellar guests—who know and love Athens—to tell us their own tales of the city and what Athens means to them. Produced by the Greek Podcast Project, for This is Athens, tune-in each fortnight as we capture the authentic essence of Athens today; a city that is so much more than the Acropolis.

Follow British actor and author Stephen Fry through the winding lanes and sacred temples of Athens as he awakens his three favourite myths about the Greek capital, as part of our 6-episode podcast series, “We’ll Always Have Athens”.

Stephen Fry

It’s fair to say Stephen Fry is a man of many talents. After dazzling guests at a dinner party while retelling Greek myths, the British actor, comedian and author discovered his talent for bringing these ancient tales to life. He knows his Theseus from his Prometheus, his Medea from his Medusa, and has a knack for making us feel that the myths are still alive and kicking in the city’s old temples, winding streets and hills. He’s even written a book on the subject, suitably titled “Mythos”. Fry joins us from lockdown in his home in Norfolk, UK, to share his three favourite myths about Athens.

This content was originally published on This is Athens

Whether you’ve just arrived in town – or have been here for years – Athens always has new secrets to share! This is Athens is the official guide to this captivating city of ancient energies and booming urban culture. Compiled by a team of specialist local writers, This is Athens brings you an authentic and intimate portrait of a living Athens beyond the guidebooks – along with daily curated listings of all the best events and great weekend inspiration all-year round. From must-know neighbourhoods and emerging art hubs, to gourmet hotspots, cool shopping and the buzziest bars, This is Athens will help you to get the most out of living in Athens!

Thank you This is Athens for your contribution as an XpatAthens Partner.


Friday, 02 October 2020 12:33

Exploring The Vineyards Around Athens

If you’re a wine lover, we’ve got some good news: The past 30 years have seen the renaissance of Greek wine, with an impressive array of exciting labels from all over Greece, so schedule your wine tour right now.
 
Μadrid may be the only capital in the world to have its own wine appellation, but Athens is still one of the few major cities to boast a vineyard on its doorstep. Although not as well-known as Vienna’s Heurige wine region, the Mesogaia valley, a mere 30km from downtown Athens, is covered with over 650 hectares of vines. You fly right over the vineyards as your plane lands at Athens International Airport. The Mesogaia vineyard, defined by Mount Pendeli to the north and Hymettus to the south, has been the capital’s purveyor of inexpensive, everyday wine for centuries.
 
Mesogaia is considered the birthplace of retsina. The local grape, the sturdy Savatiano, can produce excellent resinated wines and a wide range of non-resinated, dry whites. Over the past 30 years, there have been so many successful experimental vinifications of the Savatiano that it is now considered one of the most exquisite grapes Greece has to offer.
 
Two other areas on the outskirts of Athens have important vineyards: one to the north, extending from Stamata to the village of Afidnes, and one to the west, centered around the town of Megara.
 
At the turn of the 20th century, Attica was Greece’s most important wine-producing region. Sadly, most vineyards have now disappeared as the city expanded in all directions, especially from the mid-sixties onwards. When the Athens airport relocated to Spata in 200, more than 1,800 hectares of vineyards were sacrificed. However, this was offset by a decree ruling that all the surrounding land will remain farmland indefinitely. The legislation has saved many of the vineyards around Spata, Markopoulo, and Koropi.
 
Even though more than 40 wineries currently operate in the Mesogaia region and beyond, very few are open to visitors. On the plus side, they are so close to Athens that some of them can even be reached on public transport, although using a car is best if you want to drive through the vineyards and combine a visit to one or more wineries with other attractions and beaches nearby.

These Attica wineries are open to the public and available for tours and tastings. Call or email in advance to arrange your visit.

Ktima Kokotou

Ktima Kokotou is a lovely estate surrounded by nature, 23 km north of Athens. It was created by George and Anne Kokotos in 1980, and if you’re lucky you will be shown around by Anne, who is English and passionate about wine. The estate is known for its elegant and sophisticated produce. Wines that you must try: their flawless Savatiano, their elegant Chardonnay, and the award-winning Kokotos Estate Red.

Address: Kokotos Estate, Stamata, 145 75
Telephone: 210 8145113
Note: Wheelchair Accessible

Papagiannakos Winery

Vasilis Papagiannakos is the first winemaker in Greece to have built a bioclimatic winery, designed by award-winning architect Elena Stavropoulou. The building is beautiful and impressive, with lots of wood and big windows overlooking the vineyards. Wines here are very modern and popular on the export markets. Must try: a meaty Savatiano from old vines, an ultra-modern version of Retsina, and a truly impressive rosé called Granatus.

Address: Pythagora, Markopoulo, 190 03
Telephone: 22990 25206
Note: Wheelchair Accessible

Mylonas Winery

This proud-to-be-small winery was created in 1917 and is currently run by three Mylonas brothers who have made a name for themselves as ambassadors of the Savatiano grape. Winemaker Stamatis Mylonas doesn’t need much convincing to put together a vertical tasting of his Savatiano wines, proving what an exciting varietal this is. Also, unmissable is his steely Assyrtiko.

Address: 3 Ippokratous, Keratea, 190 01
Telephone: 22990 68156


To read more, please visit This is Athens

Whether you've just arrived in town – or have been here for years – Athens always has new secrets to share! This is Athens is the official guide to this captivating city of ancient energies and booming urban culture. Compiled by a team of specialist local writers, This is Athens brings you an authentic and intimate portrait of a living Athens beyond the guidebooks – along with daily curated listings of all the best events and great weekend inspiration all-year round. From must-know neighbourhoods and emerging art hubs, to gourmet hotspots, cool shopping and the buzziest bars, This is Athens will help you to get the most out of living in Athens!

Thank you This is Athens for your contribution as an 
XpatAthens Partner.
 
Tuesday, 13 October 2020 11:53

FokiaNou Art Space: Creatures and Visages

“Creatures and Visages”, Catherine Suen and Giorgos Spyropoulos

FokiaNou Art Space is pleased to present a two-person show of new work from Catherine Suen and Giorgos Spyropoulos. The two artists are good friends who discovered that they both operate on the same level of fantasy, are engaged with similar themes, and use similar palettes.

Not at ease with the real world, Catherine Suen finds refuge in a fantasy world where she can let her imagination run free. Using whatever recycled materials (paper, cardboard, fabrics, plastic, cans, etc.) she can collect, she cuts, assembles, and paints flamboyantly costumed Creatures, in order to create a whole universe more to her liking. These costumes are both inspired by the various cultures she has encountered while traveling and a reflection of her inner world which aspires to a better real world. Born in France, Suen studied Chinese at the Institute of Oriental Languages and Civilization in Paris, then traveled to many countries before settling in Aegina 20 years ago, where she lives and works as an independent visual artist. She has shown her work regularly in Athens and Aegina, and also works as a costume and set designer for various theater companies.

Giorgos Spyropoulos is primarily a musician who has turned to making visual images as another means of artistic self-expression. As co-founder of the psychedelic 60s band Nirvana UK, he lived in England for 30 years, working in the recording industry. He returned to Greece on a permanent basis in the late 1990s and began working with digital images. He continues to make music while also creating collaged “pictures within pictures”, finding another way to say something that he cannot express with words or music.

The use of masks and social distancing are required in all areas of the space, including the roof terrace, halls, and elevator.

FokiaNou Art Space is an artist-run project space in the intimacy of a small apartment in an old building in the center of Athens. The space encourages collaborative creative efforts between Greek and foreign artists, thereby promoting and supporting the local art community. The space hosts exhibitions, workshops, and projects under the direction of two artists, Mary Cox and Panagiotis Voulgaris.

Dates & Hours

The show opens Thursday, 22 October, 16.00-21.00
Tuesday to Saturday 17.00 - 20.00.
"Athens just feels like a breath of fresh air," says Ben Jacobs as he looks over the sleeping city from the roof of his new apartment in Kypseli. Ben's work and social life in London became severly affected by coronavirus restrictions, so he started looking for cities where he could still work but enjoy a much more fulfilling existence. Athens came out on top.

Athens has been rising as a destination for digital nomads for several years now, with people of all types of professions, from artists to web developers and online marketers, deciding that the Greek capital offers a winning combination of climate, quality of life, and low cost of living. When Covid-19 struck Europe, Greece was acknowledged as one of the countries to have handled the outbreak best; the early and strict lockdown kept cases low—and as of now, Greece still has much fewer fatalities than other EU countries of comparable size.

We spoke to 'corona nomads' from a range of countries and professions about their decision to move to Athens, the experiences they've had while here, and why they recommend relocating to the Greek capital.

The Frustrated Artist—Isabella Efstathiou

"I was working on a huge youth dance project, I was in multiple drag shows, I was developing a contemporary dance project and planning to take my company LADS on tour around Australia and New Zealand," Isabella recalls. "Then, corona appeared, and all of that was canceled, along with any future work."

Isabella, 29, is a performance artist and feature choreographer, accustomed to working multiple gigs, seven days a week and being regularly on the move. "Now I have just a few hours of yoga teaching per week," she explains. "The change was drastic and devastating at first. I couldn't teach, I couldn't perform and I had no-one to collaborate with. All things I adore doing. It was really hard to have it all ripped out from underneath me."

In March, she left London and returned to Nottingham to spend the lockdown with her family. Isabella is half Greek, half English but grew up in the UK, taking holidays to Greece. When her late grandmother's flat in Koukaki became available in July, she jumped at the opportunity. "Dancers can't sit still, we have to keep training," says Isabella. "After being cooped up in the UK, here I have space to train at home with the free classes that dance schools and teachers have been putting online."

Normally, Isabella would be performing at the big summer festivals and booking gigs for next year. She now faces an empty calendar stretching long into the distance. Yet, with her savings and a small income from teaching online yoga and dance classes, she's learned to enjoy a simpler life in Athens, shopping at the laiki, exploring the cool cafes of Koukaki.
 
"If there's no work, there's no reason for me to be back in London," she says. "If everything is going to be laptop-based for the foreseeable future, I might as well be here, where the Mediterranean lifestyle is more chilled, the food is delicious, the sun shines for eight out of twelve months of the year and the sea is really close. I'm quite happy to leave the rat race behind."

The Playwright Searching For A Muse—Ben Jacobs

Like Isabella, Ben, 32, works in an industry decimated by coronavirus: tourism. As a self-employed London tour guide, he ushered groups around the capital daily, passionately sharing stories and interacting with visitors from all over the world.

"London is great for making money, meeting people and going to events," he says. "But now, with so few tourists, I can't make anywhere near what I used to; while London is still as expensive as it has always been." Reluctant to face a long and dreary British winter and the significant restrictions on indoor spaces, Ben's thoughts turned to Athens, particularly its lively outdoor art scene.

"Lockdown has forced everything outdoors and that's far less restricting in an outdoors culture like Athens," he says. Aside from being a tour guide, Ben is also a writer and playwright, with several works currently in progress. Rather than burning through his savings paying rent in London—or switching careers—he decided to relocate to Athens to make his money stretch much further. He arrived in mid-September, just as new lockdowns arrived elsewhere across Europe.

"I've definitely got enough work to keep me busy here," he says. "Athens is now a throbbing and passionate metropolis; a lively stage on the edge of Europe. There's tonnes of inspiration here to create and perform new work."


To read more, please visit This is Athens

Whether you've just arrived in town – or have been here for years – Athens always has new secrets to share! This is Athens is the official guide to this captivating city of ancient energies and booming urban culture. Compiled by a team of specialist local writers, This is Athens brings you an authentic and intimate portrait of a living Athens beyond the guidebooks – along with daily curated listings of all the best events and great weekend inspiration all-year round. From must-know neighbourhoods and emerging art hubs, to gourmet hotspots, cool shopping and the buzziest bars, This is Athens will help you to get the most out of living in Athens!

Thank you This is Athens for your contribution as an XpatAthens Partner.

Thursday, 01 October 2020 11:05

A Local’s Guide To Keramikos

Fresh, edgy and arty, Keramikos is reinventing itself as the new gallery and gourmet quarter of Athens. Art influencer Rebecca Camhi paints a picture.

Rebecca Camhi moved to Keramikos in 2008, long before the gentrification of this gritty, graffiti-lined neighbourhood kicked in. She lives in a sky-blue townhouse that doubles as a gallery and design shop, selling one-of-a-kind ceramics, jewellery, kaftans and cushions. “The area is changing rapidly,” says Camhi. “It’s full of incredible abandoned buildings that are ripe for restoration.” Slowly, these derelict houses and mid-century apartments are being converted into galleries, workshops, bars and restaurants, popping up among the Egyptian hookah bars, no-frills Cretan meze joints, and Chinese grocers. “Visiting artists love the area,” says Camhi. “It’s fresh and different, edgy, scruffy, and even a little seedy in parts, not so exposed to tourists. It’s also one of the most diverse neighbourhoods in Athens, opening up an exciting new chapter in the city’s history.”

Galleries

Take a day to wander around the galleries in Keramikos. A couple of blocks from my gallery, The Breeder is a beautiful space designed by the architect Aris Zambikos and the shows are just as cool. Atopos CVC is a multi-disciplinary space in a neoclassical building and there’s always lots going on there. The Municipal Art Gallery, once a silk factory, is home the city’s modern art collection. Most galleries are closed Sunday and Monday and some spaces are only open by appointment, so check before you go.

Seychelles

I always take visitors to this restaurant and they always love it. In the summer, you can sit outside on Platia Avdi, a huge square that’s the heart of the neighbourhood. Be patient; you may have a long wait for your food, but it will be worth it. They serve Greek dishes with a twist, including an amazing selection of Greek cheeses. Seychelles is open for lunch or dinner but do book ahead—it’s packed even on a Monday night. You can always have a drink at Ble Papagalos, a café-bar across the square, while you’re waiting for a table.

Address: 49 Keramikou, Keramikos, 104 36
Telephone: 211 1834789

Tamarind

After a week of feta and grilled fish, you might be in the mood for something spicier. This cosy, unpretentious Thai place, run by the lovely Angela, has great atmosphere and service. The green curries are divine.

Address: 51 Keramikou, Keramikos, 104 36
Telephone: 
210 5225945

Chorologie

This fantastic dance school is run by professional dancers and choreographers with international careers. You can take ballet, jazz and contemporary dance lessons with incredible views of the Parthenon from the studio. If you’re into dance, also check out the Arroyo Nuevo flamenco school nearby, a beautiful loft space in an old car-repair shop.

Address: 76 Peiraios, Keramikos, 104 35
Telephone: 
210 5231060

Sto Vathos Kipos

If you’re renting a place with a kitchen, stock up on organic produce at this cute, bright orange store run by two brothers, Loukas and Stefanos Skoulikaris. I do all my grocery shopping here. Look out for the organic loaves from Betty’s Bread. The name of the shop means 'garden at the rear', and there really is a secret garden behind the shop. If you’re into fresh, local produce, do check out the farmer’s market every Tuesday.

Address: 99 Keramikou, Keramikos, 104 35
Telephone: 
213 0235776

Latraac Skate Park

This skate bowl has a little café in the yard that does a really good Sunday brunch. You can eat poached eggs and pancakes while you watch the skaters showing off. This unique spot in Athens is the brainchild of architect Zachos Varfis, who designed Athens' first skate bowl using floor wood from an old building and site debris. Latraac frequently hosts DJ sets and you never know which famous skateboarder you'll find whirling on its track.

Address: 63-64 Leonidou, Keramikos, 104 35
Telephone: 
213 0453377

This content was originally published on This is Athens

Whether you’ve just arrived in town – or have been here for years – Athens always has new secrets to share! This is Athens is the official guide to this captivating city of ancient energies and booming urban culture. Compiled by a team of specialist local writers, This is Athens brings you an authentic and intimate portrait of a living Athens beyond the guidebooks – along with daily curated listings of all the best events and great weekend inspiration all-year round. From must-know neighbourhoods and emerging art hubs, to gourmet hotspots, cool shopping and the buzziest bars, This is Athens will help you to get the most out of living in Athens!

Thank you This is Athens for your contribution as an XpatAthens Partner.
Tuesday, 13 October 2020 09:55

A Local’s Guide To Petralona

Old school tavernas, all-day bars, punk bistros and a classic outdoor cinema. Editor and publisher Kimon Frangakis spotlights eclectic Petralona.

Petralona, and especially its upper half of Ano Petralona, is a neighbourhood often quoted as an example of contemporary Athenian gentrification. However, this is far from the truth since Ano Petralona always was, and remains, a charming residential area. Built on the foot of the Philopappou Hill hugging the Acropolis, below the ancient settlement of Koile, Ano Petralona has a truly Athenian vibe. This is why the addresses worth visiting are those with a neighbourhood feel, rather than the faux traditional joints that have sprung up in the last few years.

Oikonomou

Arguably the neighbourhood’s bedrock, it is an institution which has been going strong for almost a century. Although the eponymous Mr. Oikonomou still lives above the restaurant, business has been in the hands of the colourful Mr. Kostas Diamandis for two decades—a "they don’t make ‘em like they used to” Greek, with a dry sense of humour and a big, kind heart. In the open kitchen, the female cook, Garyfallia, dishes out no-nonsense family fare such as roast baby lamb with waxy-lemony potatoes, rabbit casserole, or stuffed cabbage leaves (beef and rice) in a silky egg and lemon (avgolemono) sauce. Don’t be shy to ask for wine from the “reserve” barrel in the basement, and make sure you try some of the amber-red quince preserve Kostas makes himself, for dessert.

Address: 32 Kydantidon, Ano Petralona, 118 51
Telephone: 210 3467555

Blue Bamboo

Much more than your average round-the-corner Thai, this is a place for rubbing elbows (the larger tables/benches are for sharing) with some cool characters from the Athenian arty milieu. Well-heeled customers from the northern suburbs also tend to flock here in search of neighbourhood authenticity and always end up paying a little more than they expected mainly because of the nice cocktails. (The wine list is in fact quite uninspired.) The food is always good and consistent. Sit at the bar and watch the action unfold in the open kitchen right behind, as a tableau vivant. Specials include elegantly presented red and green curries, a mean larb gai (shredded chicken and mint salad), and a very reliable Pad Thai.

Address: 24 Kydantidon, Petralona, 118 51
Telephone: 210 3423124

Zefyros Cinema

One of Athens' oldest and most loved open-air cinemas, with a recurring repertoire of neo-realist, nouvelle vague and even Soviet classics. It doesn’t have the Acropolis view of the famous Thissio cinema nearby, but it doesn’t attract so many tourists either. If you want to feel like a true Athenian, come here on the warmest night and drink beer under the stars. Never mind if you have watched what’s on before—that’s beside the point.

Address: 36 Troon, Petralona, 118 51
Telephone: 210 3462677

Klouvi

The coolest of the area’s bars, this 'cage' as it’s named in Greek, is a neighbourhood dive that somehow managed to get a full revamp without losing its relaxed attitude. Don’t let the unfussy crowd fool you: the bartenders here are quite crafty with cocktails. Try the potent Negroni for a generous aperitif. If you don’t mind the indoor smoking, this is also a good option to hit the bar later in the evening for a nightcap, after dining in the neighbourhood’s various eateries.

Address: 21 Kydantidon, Petralona, 118 51
Telephone: 210 3479998

Chryssa

The 'grande dame' of Petralona, Mrs. Chryssa, used to run the best (and only) sophisticated restaurant of Ano Petralona, before it was cool. Following the lifestyle curve to nearby Keramikos, she moved her business to that grungier neighbourhood—only to return to Ano Petralona a couple of years ago. This time her restaurant is smaller and less ambitious, but she still offers a decent alternative to most commonplace tavernas nearby, with her gentle manners and light touch. Her best sellers include an elegant rendering of the chicken souvlaki, fava with capers and sun-dried tomato, and homemade cheesecake with honey.

Address: 40 Eoleon, Petralona, 118 52
Telephone: 213 0356879

To Theio Tragi

This self-proclaimed 'punk bistro' serves food as creative (if slightly over-complicated) as the term suggests. (The restaurant’s name literally translates as “The Holy Billy Goat”, borrowed from a poem by Yiannis Skarimbas.) If all that sounds a little too hip, bear in mind that the establishment is well priced and the innovative menu is short and changes regularly. A little stuffy in the summer, it is a nice option for a date on a winter night, with a glass of wine by an independent Greek producer at the bar, and some 'punk’d' dishes (like organic chicken with banana, chestnut and sage or custard with sharp Naxos cheese, caramel and almonds) to share.

Address: 36 Kydantidon, Petralona, 118 51
Telephone: 210 3410296


This content was originally published on This is Athens

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