I had a friend visiting over the holidays – a Canadian-Greek buddy who was looking to escape frosty Toronto for a few days… He has been here many times before, but only in summer. So this was a chance to see what I promised him would be a very different city to the sweating, heaving Athens of July & August.

And he loved it. He said the city felt ‘real’ and ‘authentic’. We explored the usual spots (and some new little places!), and the whole time he kept saying ‘wow!’ around every corner… One day, after walking up to Philopappou hill for the gorgeous view of the Acropolis, we went to a little hidden part of the city called Anafiotika. While many of us have heard of Anafiotika, it seems most have never ventured into this tiny neighbourhood of Plaka. Anafiotika was first built in the 19th century to house workers from the island of Anafi, who came to Athens to work on the construction of the king’s palace. The neighbourhood was built in a cycladic style and today feels like being on the islands, in the heart of the city. It’s worth the stroll up the northeast side of the Acropolis hill – camera required.

Smog notwithstanding, my friend was struck with the ‘green’ of the city. Philopappou, the National Gardens, even the bright green grass and trees around the Acropolis hill – this was a welcome surprise and a change from the usual summertime look of the city.

I hope you find the time to explore the city over the coming months – while it still feels green and local and real.

Kali xronia! Until next time,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

I’ve just returned from a great few days with friends, celebrating Christmas in a village near Ancient Olympia. 12 of us jumped into our cars and drove the 3 hours across the Peloponnese towards Pyrgos. Our overnight bags crammed with pillows and wrapped presents, we spent 2 days in front of the fire, eating, drinking, laughing and enjoying a relaxed time together. It was really great, and a reminder of the things that really matter.

Even with the distinctly Greek blue skies and sunshine of December, it still felt like Christmas. In the end, that ‘Christmas feeling’ we remember from childhood - the anticipation, the opening of boxes big and small, the delicious meals and stories around the table – these have less to do with climate and location, and everything to do with those with whom we share these days. And a few well-timed Skype calls to loved ones in faraway places brought everyone together in a very ‘modern’ way.

The drive back home included a stop in the picturesque town of Vytina, a perfectly wintery locale, with beautiful stone houses, great tavernas, lots of local wares – the perfect end to a great holiday.

Until next week…

With warm wishes to all,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

Or are you like me, and buy all gifts (big and small) online?

I really enjoy Christmas, I love the lights, the decorations, the crowds, the general ‘Christmas spirit’. This year will not be an easy one for many families in Athens, to be sure. But I think a lot of us get a huge kick out of the whole festive season…

As far as filling up the (small) stockings on my list, I must admit that even when I ventured down to Ermou St. or to The Mall in Marousi over the past days, I didn’t cross anything off my list. Lots of people, lots of activity, lots of Christmasy fun - but zero bags of goodies.

Appropriately enough, I’ve had lots of luck using Skroutz (‘Scrooge’). This is a site that compares 100’s of online shops across Greece, for all kinds of products – from mobile phones to kitchen accessories, from air conditioners to bicycles and baby gear. The site has a great interface, accurate price comparisons, and with a few easy clicks you’ve found, ordered and paid and sit happily waiting for your exciting delivery.

I wish everyone out there a happy holiday and an even better 2013 – let’s make it count.

Until next week,

Jack

www.skroutz.gr

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

I convinced a friend to visit over the past few days – with promises of warm weather & sunshine to cure her more ‘northern’ lifestyle. Of course, it’s been freezing and wet and generally unpleasant here too most of the week – but that didn’t stop us.

With nightly escapades in Gazi, Thissio, Psirri and Kolonaki, the nightlife tour of Athens was on! Needless to say, she was appropriately dazzled.

From drinks at Hoxton in Gazi, coffee at my fave Moma in Thissio to a great dinner at Papadakis in Kolonaki and a night of live music and nargile in Psirri – we managed to move from shabby-chic warehouse to comfy-chic café to elegant-chic fine dining to graffiti-chic in Psirri. All in the span of a few (ok, more than a few) blocks’ walk.

And at each point, on each evening, I was thinking ‘this is winter, it’s raining, it’s cold, it’s not an easy place to be these days’ – but still I have the distinct feeling that people manage to enjoy themselves in that quintessential Athenian way: after dark, anywhere, with friends.

Bring on winter. And hopefully bring on a quieter week in front of the fireplace ;)

See you Saturday at the Intercontinental…

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

Helmut Newton is one of the world’s famous photographers, working before the ‘age of photoshop’… The exhibit was simple and striking – his provocative style is well-known.

Opened in 2010 after an international architecture competition, the Onassis Cultural Centre is a modern building on Syngrou Avenue, near the Intercontinental Hotel. As Athens’ newest major cultural space, it plays host to a great variety of events and performances from the worlds of theatre, dance, music and the visual arts to the written word.

I must say, the building is impressive: different levels, different layers offering interesting spaces to explore. Ticket prices seem quite reasonable. A quick scan through their website (in English!) reveals a rich program, with something for everyone interested in contemporary culture. It gets a bookmark on my browser. ;)

And on-site parking too.

Until next week,

Jack

Onassis Cultural Centre
107-109 Syngrou Avenue
Information/Tickets: 210 900 5800
www.sgt.gr/en

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

The Pallas theatre is tucked away behind the Attica department store near Syntagma square. It’s a classic theatre, and judging by the program pamphlet they gave out, there are lots of interesting shows coming up…

The evening was an unexpected mixture of two distinct but related cultures – the music was both familiar and ‘exotic’, and the blending of Armenian and Greek vocals with the perfect-English commentary of Dinkjian, created a wonderful international performance.

The night was full of beautiful music, music with a subtle message of ‘hope’ for everyone there. The classic songs and lyrics of this duo took on a different tone in today’s Athens – the hand clapping and cheers of the audience means they probably got the message.

Check out Elliniki Theamaton for the Pallas and other theatre listings.

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

After living in Marousi all this time, I decided to take a look at what’s out there in different neighbourhoods. So with a few appointments scheduled, and with 2 friends in tow, I spent most of the weekend going from apartment to apartment (yes, some Athenian realtors work Sundays!). We looked nearby (Marousi, Kifissia) but also looked in the city centre (Thissio, Psirri), which, incidentally, have some great ‘lofty’ spaces.

Of course, the triple set of ‘apartment essentials’ is location, price and style – and we all know it’s normally impossible to find all three together. This weekend was no different. One nice place in a bad location. Another great location out of my real price range. Another perfectly placed and affordable spot, but not really my taste.

So the search continues. And sometimes I think that going through the motions of looking for a new place to live serves the greater purpose of reminding you how much you love going home every day to the place you already have.

Looking forward to a fun night at Molly Malone’s on Saturday!

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

The afternoon was a mix of coffee and meze at a neighbourhood taverna behind the Akropolis Museum – Mani Mani is a great little ‘local’ treat. The menu is a delicious twist on typical tavern fare, with traditional and not-so-traditional food from the southern Peloponnese.

Later in the evening, I met up with some friends for a catch-up at Gazarte.

Gazarte is on the sophisticated end of things in Gazi, with live events, an art-house cinema, bar and restaurant. It’s the kind of place that has something for everyone – in an atmosphere that is decidedly ‘comfy’ and welcoming, with a great cocktail list.

Traffic and an evening protest notwithstanding, Sunday proved to be a great day. With friends, food and fun on the ticket, what could be better….

Until next week,

Jack

Mani Mani
Falirou 10, Makriyianni
www.manimani.com.gr

Gazarte
Voutadon 34 , Gazi
www.gazarte.gr

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

This week we hear from Gillian, who recently spent a couple action-packed days in our city…

“I wanted to send this to you, since I often read the weekly newsletters and remember fondly my visits to Greece…

I’ve just returned from a fun week in Crete, cycling around the island with a group of fellow bike-enthusiasts. Before our return to our various homelands, a few of us decided to spend two nights in Athens (cheaper return flights!). We stayed at a small central hotel, and set out on foot to see what we could see in the ‘capital of crisis’.

In between the large number of closed shop windows and the sadness of the homeless people one can see for the first time ever on Athens’ streets, I must say that I felt an incredible energy in the city. Streets still filled with people, families still out and about, warm smiles & generous spirit all around.

I have great hope for Athens and Greece, that this energy will stamp out the hardships of today and pave the way for a better tomorrow. I feel this is really possible! I look forward to visiting again soon.”

Thanks for this, Gillian…

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

My appointment at the US Embassy Notary was for 9:00 Monday morning and I got the email files with the final paperwork late Friday night. Now I all had to do was find a place that could print all 150 pages on a Saturday. And while I'm used to 24 Hour Kinko's, this is Greece...

As I left my apartment Saturday morning to try to find a copy store or internet cafe, my neighbors asked the usual questions--"how are you, where are you going today, etc." As I explained my predicament, the whole family gathered at the door. "You can't go to an internet cafe! It will be too expensive..." "Wait! We will give you a map of a better place..." The next thing I knew, the directions to a better place had been upgraded to a personal guide and the father had me on the back of his scooter to take me to the copy shop of their friends. "We've called. They can do it. Don't worry." 20 minutes later, I had my 150 pages, had paid only 6 euros, a fraction of what it would have been at an internet cafe, and had an exciting scooter ride through Athens.

Services like 24 Hour Kinko's may be more convenient, but there's something much more powerful about the personal touch and connection that you get navigating your way through Greece. I guess that's what we love about it.

Thanks Lynn for sharing your story with us. We look forward to hearing more stories.

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…