I sent out a Whatsapp message to a friend, and it came back with a ‘Let’s go!’, so we headed toward Syntagma and what has quickly become Athens’ staple sushi restaurant – Koi Sushi Bar.

I’ve written about Koi before. This is probably the most affordable sushi/Japanese eatery in town, with great prices and a simple menu (and as of this week, open in Kifisia!). I’ve been there quite a few times, and always leave stuffed and smiling at the number on the bill. There are some fantastic sushi restaurants in Athens – but for price and value, Koi can’t be beat. Take note: it can get very crowded, especially on weekends, so be prepared to wait. Cash only.

On the way home from the restaurant, right around the corner in fact, I walked by a little shop that I have never noticed before: Soya Athens. It turns out that Soya Athens has been around since 2005 and supplies an amazing range of authentic Japanese food products (foods, drinks, Sake, etc.) as well as tableware, kitchen utensils, etc. The shop is very cute and packed with great stuff. And they even have an online shop. The best surprise is their sushi club, where members can learn how to prepare sushi from a pro!

So Saturday turned into a ‘virtual visit’ to Japan – Arigatou gozaimasu...
 

Koi Sushi Bar
Nikis 15, Syntagma
210 321 1099

Soya Athens
Apollonos 33, Syntagma
210 323 6324
www.soyaathens.gr

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

Apart from the various year-round offerings around the city, one of my favourite theatre events is the annual ‘Hellenic Festival’ – also called the Athens & Epidaurus Festival (www.greekfestival.gr/en/) which happens every summer. The festival offers a great range of classical and modern theatrical masterpieces and musical performances at the stunning Herodeon and Epidaurus theatres.

But back to winter reality… I often drive or walk by a place called ‘Chytirio’, in the Gazi/Kerameikos neighborhood. It’s an unassuming little building with performance adverts posted outside. I’ve often wondered what goes on in here… So the other night I bought a couple of tickets (a steal at €8 each) to a show called ‘Aires de Argentina’ at the Chytirio.

Chytirio means ‘foundry’ – and I’d like to believe the building was once, perhaps, a foundry. It is styled as a ‘Theatre / Art Café’. In any case, the venue is rather interesting: direct entry into an outdoor garden space set-up for summer shows, a small indoor bar/café, and a small (150 person) theatre, with exposed stone walls and a ‘small space’, intimate feeling. Athenian, to be sure.

This was a musical performance more than theatre – a ‘trip around Argentina’ through music and dance. (Has anyone else noticed that Athens seems to be in love with Argentinean music and dance??) It was a very pleasant evening – nice music, relaxed and easy, like a private performance by a group of friends – complete with wine served to you during the show.

Chytirio seems to have something for everyone – music & theatre, local and not-so-local. Worth a look to see if anything catches your eye!

Muy bien!

Chytirio (Χυτήριο)
Iera Odos 44, Kerameikos
210 3412313
www.chytirio.gr (Greek only)

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

Petralona has an abundance of well-known, lesser-known and always easy-to-like places for food and fun. From French cuisine at Chez Lucien (Troon 32), to Thai at Andaman (Peiraios 187 & Alopis 65), to drinks at the industrial-chic Lola (Kiriadon 11), Petralona does not disappoint.

On Saturday night I went for dinner to 'The Holy Goat' (Το Θείο Τραγί). I had heard of this place, both through a friend and through a couple of different online reviews. The feedback was so great that I had to see for myself. I can happily add my confirmation that this self-styled 'punk bistro' is a truly refreshing addition to the Athens food scene. 

We arrived at 9:00pm, without a reservation, to a packed house - so we took a seat at one of the bar tables.  There was a great vibe, friendly banter, eclectic music (alt/rock, but really not too loud). The space is divided into a dining room and a bar area. For space in the dining room, book ahead. The design is modern, wooden and warm, and the vibe is casual and energized. It's a feel-good place. 

But the food. Easily some of the most interesting gourmet creations I've had in Athens. Seriously. Carefully crafted dishes that bring out a 'wow.' at every bite. Add to that a great wine list with interesting Greek selections, and super cocktail inventions - the entire menu feels 'curated' for a discerning, eclectic palate.

The price point is also a nice surprise, given the high-minded nature of the menu. Starters around €6-7, mains around €12-14.  Various wines on the list - with a single glass at €3. Imagine: orzo with sea urchin eggs, bacon, seaweed. I dare you not to like it.

Granted, you will not go here after a 3-day fast to gorge on kebabs. This is no taverna; this is decidedly gourmet. You will go here when your palate is demanding something more refined, more under-stated, more civilized. Living in Athens, those three things have become quite important to me. And as high-minded as the food is, the place itself is so very Athenian - zero attitude, relaxed and fun.

So yes, you are still in Athens. Smoking is allowed at the bar, and if you stay well past 1:00am as we did, you will enjoy an eclectic variety of second-hand smoke... So be warned.  And they do not accept credit cards. But on every other count, this could easily be a cool night out in San Francisco or Toronto.

Will definitely go back.

The Holy Goat / To Theio Tragi
Kidantidon 36, Athens (Ano Petralona)
(+30) 210 341 0296
www.facebook.com/totheiotragi.gr

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

On a recent walk through the shop-lined streets of Plaka, a visiting non-Greek friend remarked on her surprise that shops still stocked all the ‘touristy kitsch’ that has been around for decades – tacky souvenirs, fridge magnets and the replica mini-statues that are apparently everywhere.

We laughed about this briefly, but the conversation persisted, to the point that we were discussing the lack of interesting design in Athens. The question that really got to me was ‘Where’s the creativity??’  He was completely correct – the shops did seem to be mostly full of the kind of junk churned out by far-away sweatshops, stuff that has caused all of us to ask ‘Who buys this stuff?’

Truth be told, there is great design here – but I will admit that it often hides below the surface. The good news is that others have noticed – and there are numerous new shops popping up, with cool, innovative, and completely desirable products to remind visitors (and us locals!) of their time in Greece. These range from design stores to gourmet food shops and even Greek wine shops. But my friend’s comments got me thinking… What is out there in terms of cool Greece-inspired design, for the world to buy, even after they have left for home?

I decided to do some research for my friend, to show him that there are in fact some very interesting, inspiring and ‘must have’ made-in-Greece products that any nephew/neighbor/friend would love to receive! The bonus is that these are also available online – for those of us who like to click-and-buy.

So below is my (incomplete!) list of inspired Greek design, available online – the perfect antidotes to This Is Sparta t-shirts and Greek-flag shot glasses.

Do you have any more Greek design sites? I’d love to hear about them.

Here’s the list:

http://www.wecreateharmony.com/
Concept e-shop supporting young designers, with a portion of all sales going to a cause related to unemployment or a start-up seeking funding.

http://www.yolenis.com
Mediterranean Food & Taste

http://sophia.com.gr/
Design inspired by ancient Greek heritage

http://www.coolgreeksoap.com/
Natural, handmade artisanal olive oil soap.

http://www.greecerevisited.com/
Greece inspired products by wedesign.

http://www.lovegreece.com.gr/
Eco-friendly 100% “Made in Greece” tshirts.

http://afutureperfect.gr
Architecturally-inspired design products

http://m-y.gr/
Unique, printed clothing and accessories.

http://www.tourvas.gr
Custom, recycled-fabric bags.

http://www.rdesign.gr
Creative, everyday objects.

Until next week,

Jack
 

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

I feel it’s one of the defining ‘Athens centre’ districts, and has remained uniquely authentic and still somewhat off most tourist maps.  So I jumped at the invitation to join a group of friends on a photography walk of Psirri. We grabbed cameras and tripods and set out to wander the little side streets of the neighbourhood on a warm but overcast Saturday afternoon.

Past the main streets of the area, the more obvious with the little tavernas and bars, we wandered onto a series of streets and alleys that are covered in graffiti – the kind of grafitti one actually enjoys and wants to photograph. Psirri is the definition of street art. It’s grungy and shabby-chic, but also completely authentic and absolutely ‘local’.

Later, we stopped for a drink – and in wintertime Psirri one must order oinomelo or it’s stronger cousin rakomelo. This is wine or raki, sweetened with honey, and served steaming hot. A greek version of glüwein? Perhaps, but rakomelo is oh-so-Psirri.

We sat at Liosporos, one of those places I pass every time I’m in Psirri, but have never been in. I loved it. Small, cute, quaint, grungy enough to be authentic and styled enough to be comfortable. Nice vibe, good music, warm rakomelo.

Even if you think you know it well, check out Psirri – wander past the main streets, get lost, be brave – and be rewarded with one of Athens coolest neighbourhoods.

If nothing else, go for the rakomelo.

Liosporos
http://psirri.gr/liosporos/en/index.html
Miaouli 24
210 331 1841

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

So I love it when I get a list that includes Greece or Athens (in the spirit of ‘best of’ not ‘worst of’!), and I especially like to see what others see as ‘top’ in Athens…

Time has a number of City Guides posted online – their 10 Things To Do in Athens list is pretty straight-forward and uncontroversial:

10. Monastiraki Flea Market

9. Gazi

8. Thiseion outdoor cinema

7. Mount Lycabettus

6. Benaki Museum, Pireos Street Annex

5. Byzantino jewelry shop in Plaka

4. Acropolis museum restaurant

3. Acropolis

2. Anafiotika

1. Ancient Agora

The Guardian’s list of 10 Great Things to do in Athens is even more interesting, with several places to eat & drink:

1. Alternative Tours of Athens - walks organised by a collective of local photographers, artists, writers, musicians, designers and architects to see another side of Athens. There are tours on photography, street art, social movements, architecture, etc.

2. Food Str

3. Cafe Avissinia

4. Lake Vouliagmeni

5. Gazarte

6. Skoufia Taverna

7. Thea Terrace Bar, Central Hotel

8. The Art Foundation

9. Kokkinos Lotos

10. (Strangely, this Top 10 list only shows 9 items… go figure.)

USA Today has a site dedicated to Top 10 Lists – here’s what they say about Athens’ Top 10 Best Value Restaurants (most of which I’ve never heard of…):

10. Olymbos Naousa

9. Derlicatessen

8. Bakalomagazo

7. New York Sandwiches

6. Oxo Nou

5. Makalo

4. Ama Lachi

3. The Holy Goat

2. Paella Barcelona

1. Au Grand Zinc

Time Magazine – Athens City Guide http://content.time.com/time/travel/cityguide/article/0,31489,1942641_1942848,00.html?iid=perma_share

The Guardian - 10 Great Things to do in Athens http://www.theguardian.com/travel/2014/sep/14/10-great-things-to-do-athens-greece

Alternative Tours of Athens, +30 210 322 6713, http://atathens.org

USA Today 10 Best, http://www.10best.com/destinations/greece/athens/restaurants/best-value/

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

So it was with great interest that I picked up a copy of the in-flight magazine of Swiss airways on a recent work trip. The headline: 'Athens: Mother of all cities’

Clearly these articles are written to entice travellers to visit this lucrative Swiss airways destination. They are marketing pieces. But what exactly would a Swiss author see as enticing about Athens?

I'm going to re-write a few key phrases from the piece here - and hope that this isn’t breaking any laws! The full article can be seen linked below...

According to Swiss, ‘The Athenians virtually invented urban life, and we can still learn from them today’.  They say that Athens remains a model of urbanity. Because the ‘warm climate and the friendliness of the locals make make Athens a place where life spills out of the homes, shops and thousands of bars and restaurants and onto the streets, however narrow they may be. Because it’s a city that buzzes almost around the clock. And because a new generation has taken the recent crises as a chance to reaffirm, with almost Olympian zeal, the great Greek triumphs of the past: hospitality, culinary variety, strong coffee and fine wine!’

They mention the places that we all know – Plaka, Psirri, National Gardens, rooftop restaurants, bars, and obviously the acropolis.

In an interview with Ted Lelekas (telegourmet.org), he answers the question ‘Why Athens?’  His answer: The nightlife. The sensuality. The friendliness. The wine.

I'd say they pretty much 'got it'. Athens is all of that, and it’s not just ‘marketing puff’ to say so.

Until next week,

Jack

Swiss Magazine (Athens, November 2014):
http://www.swiss.com/CMSContent/web/SiteCollectionDocuments/SWISS-Magazine/2014/SWISS-Magazine-November.pdf

Interview with Ted Lelekas: http://www.swiss.com/CMSContent/web/SiteCollectionDocuments/SWISS-Magazine/2014/SWISS-Magazine-November-Talk.pdf

Check out the Swiss City Guide for Athens here: http://www.swiss.com/CMSContent/web/SiteCollectionDocuments/SWISS-Magazine/2014/SWISS-Magazine-November-City-Guide.pdf

 

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

As the saying goes, Mens sana in corpore sano “a healthy mind in a healthy body”, my daily routine started off with training at the Zirineio Stadium in Kifissia for a morning work out which allowed plenty of freedom for the remainder of the day.  My evenings, on the other hand, were spent exploring the centre of Athens once again.

Our first stop usually included Monastiraki and the various shops in the vicinity. We usually like to visit the shops that carry military equipment, just to have a peek. All the walking made our stomachs rumble and so decided to grab a bite at ‘A for Athens’. With the priceless view, we enjoyed dinner and then hopped on the train bound for Kifissia.

A few days later, a friend invited us to “Spiti” in Filothei to have dinner and to celebrate her birthday.  Prior to this, I had not heard of this restaurant but in the end turned out to be a real treat. Although it was a Thursday evening and quite a small restaurant, it was squirming with people of all ages. This was probably because of the tasty food and the logical prices. A definite must for something new!

This My Week In Athens post was provided by Thanasi - a sixteen year old high school student living in Athens.

For me, taking a ‘creative’ class – photography, art, cooking– is as much about improving my skills as it is about seeing the city in a different way…  Even many of the walking tours available in Athens (art walks, graffiti walks, nature walks) are well worth the cost, in terms of seeing the city and being re-inspired by the new corners and new stories you get to hear. It’s as easy as Googling “Athens walking tours” – there are tons of interesting options! And if you have some extra cash to burn, why not hop on a Segway or an e-bike and see Athens from a different perspective – literally. I try not to miss a chance to have one of these experiences whenever the opportunity (and the time and the money) allows.

After the fun photo shoots of the morning, I walked over to the Hip Café near Syntagma for a bite of brunch. Where I come from, brunch is a required weekend ritual. In Athens, it is definitely a growing phenomenon.

I hadn’t been to Hip Café for a long time, but having spent the morning in ‘classical’ Athens, it was great to slide into a comfortable chair in a decidedly modern side of the city. Music in the background, busy and buzzing with locals and expats, friendly service, good food, clean bathrooms (!), ‘chilled out’ interior – this is a place that is easy to be in, a really relaxed way to spend a weekend morning…

Their delicious menu has expanded a lot since I was there last – but thankfully they’ve still got Saturday morning’s best medicine (pancakes!), delicious yoghurt inventions, plus a lot of super healthy options (quinoa/lentil salad). I sat with my classmate in the window seat, watching the afternoon shoppers walking by.

Even on a rainy Saturday, Athens is full of surprises and full of inspiration – and very often full of honey and carbs. Sunday was spent at the gym.

Hip Café
26 Mitropoleos St., Syntagma
+30 213 015 4698
http://hipcafe.gr/

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

Of course, we have also all seen the utter creativity of Athenian drivers, in making their Renaults fit in the most awkward of spaces, or in discovering space where I am fairly sure there was no space before. Thus, when I returned from a leisurely coffee on Saturday afternoon, I was not so shocked to find a little grey Toyota sticking out diagonally from the corner, having parked nose-first up on the curb, blocking the sidewalk completely, blocking the other cars from leaving, and generally proving the miraculous skill and total arrogance of certain drivers. It was also bold to the point of offense, and (I assume) completely illegal.

Here comes the good part: on the front windshield someone had stuck a bright orange sticker that read in Greek 'Είμαι γάϊδαρος! Παρκάρω όπου γουστάρω' ('Ι am a donkey (read: jack*ss), Ι park wherever Ι please') - with a cartoon drawing of a smiling donkey sitting in a car.

This brought a huge smile to my face! Finally someone taking action against parking hoodlums, someone saying exactly what we are all thinking, in bold neon orange.

In this city of seemingly low accountability and precious few consequences (especially concerning cars and parking), this 'sticker shaming' movement is better than the alternative - the alternative being 'nothing'. So I snapped a photo and posted it to my Facebook. A couple hours later, the car was gone and the sticker was not thrown on the ground, as I had expected it would be. I'm hoping the driver got the message and perhaps was showing the sticker to his/her friends... Who am I kidding, he probably didn't even notice it on the windshield...

I'm not sure if this 'public ridicule' works, nor how widespread this practice is in Athens. Something tells me that 'public shaming' actually has an an effect in this culture - but if so, then maybe an orange sticker doesn't go far enough....

I'm less interested in the outcome (the 'driver'), than in the original action (the 'stick-er'). In an economic and social climate where the state does not/cannot take effective action on all fronts, this is a sign of thinking outside the box, of an 'entrepreneurial' mindset, of making change from the bottom-up, of creative protest, without violence or extremes. It is really a small action in the grand scheme of change, but it's different than what came before and I think its great.

So fair warning: if you are looking for parking in Athens, be careful how creative you are, lest you be stuck with a jack*ss on your windshield.

Until next week,

Jack
 

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…