Everybody has been in Plaka, and everybody has their views – it’s beautiful; it’s touristic; the heart of Athens; the worst tavernas in Athens. I might agree with some or all of these views (and there are plenty more!), but I still love to spend an afternoon wandering, or sitting at a little table and watching the world go by… I like to imagine that Athenians have been doing exactly that – maybe even right where I was sitting – for countless centuries before…  Someone once told me I’m just a ‘romantic xeno’! Perhaps.

My own favourite part of Plaka is the stairway of Mnisikleous Street. This is a magical place, crammed full of little chairs and tables, flowers overhanging all the way up, with the great energy of chattering voices. If you’re not sure which stairway I mean: it’s the one where the tourists stop to snap a photo as they walk by.

My favourite café on this little street is ‘Yasemi’. It’s the first one on the left as you go up the stairs. I’ve gotten to know the staff over the times I’ve been there, so it feels a little bit like hanging out at a friend’s place…

The other night, with visitors in tow, we walked by again and the whole scene was positively buzzing. I stopped to say hello to my ‘friends’ at Yasemi, and they told me that I must sit and eat at the little place on the opposite side of the stairs – ‘Apollonia Lyra’. This is parallel to the stairway, sort of the ‘back door’ of Yasemi. She told me ‘just trust me’. So I did. 

As it turns out, we had what my friends called ‘the best Greek night ever’. Imagine a narrow alley with tables and chairs, surrounded by the painted walls of old homes, live (good) Greek music, food that was surprisingly better than a ‘Plaka taverna’, and a price that wasn’t so bad…  The whole thing could have been a total kitschy disaster; instead, it was magical.

Some call Plaka authentic, some call it touristic. In a city like Athens, I’m not sure where that line gets drawn. For me, Mnisikleous Street is as authentic as it gets. Yes, tourists find their way here – but each time that I’ve been there, it is a decidedly Greek clientele sipping their freddo cappuccinos or their wine.

I often wander into Plaka, even on my own, especially early in the morning when I have the chance. Tourist shops aside, there is an undeniable magic in the air there – these centuries-old streets where, I imagine, not much has changed.  The stairways, the alleys, the homes, the narrow streets; this is the Athens I imagined before moving here, and it has remained one of the parts of Athens that I love most.

Until next week,

Jack

Yiasemi Café
Mnisikleous 23, Plaka
www.yiasemi.gr

Apollonia Lyra
Lysiou 12, Plaka
www.facebook.com/apollonia.lyra

 

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

Speaking of yings and yangs, I was on the metro yesterday evening – the Elektriko green line – traveling from Monastiraki to Marousi. Now, I realize that public transportation in most cities can tend to attract all kinds of interesting characters – but somehow yesterday’s rush hour on the green line had the full range of strange.

At one point, there were 3 clearly strung out characters asking for money – competitors! - with one of them named Yianni wailing about his mother in the hospital, who needed surgery and could we give him some money to help pay for it. (The bottle of booze sticking out of his back pocket notwithstanding…) The packed train more or less completely ignored them, except when one of the men in fact asked for food for his children. An older woman passenger reached into her shopping bag and gave him an entire loaf of bread. He thanked her and moved on.

This continued for a few stops, with people generally uncomfortable – the heat, the crowded train, the in-your-face desperation – all triggers for feelings of frustration, disappointment, guilt.

And then two 20-something girls got on the train, both with backpacks, shorts, and that particular tone of chatter and giggling that can be heard for miles.

Apparently they were drama students, since one of them began to recite her lines from a play or poem (don’t ask me which one – I couldn’t tell you…). Her voice carried across half the car, and people perked up, listening to her. This continued for at least 2 stops, and when she realized she had a large audience, she feigned embarrassment and apologized to the crowd. “Don't stop!”, was the answer from an old man standing nearby. So she continued. When she finished a few minutes later, half the train was clapping, and the other half was smiling (including me), and the girls got off still giggling, “Remember us we’ll be famous!”…

So yes, ying & yang (and the odd Yianni) is business as usual in Athens, especially it seems in the deepest darkest winter of September ;)

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

1. The heat. Let’s get this out of the way: I moved here for many reasons, one of which is the climate. So I am overjoyed to be able to live in a place where I spend the better part of the day, for the better part of the year, sweating. And often complaining about it. Bring it on.

2. The empty streets. Athens in August feels like it’s all mine. It’s the time of year when I love to pull out my camera and take an early morning walk in my favourite neighbourhoods, and really take in the feeling of the city in it’s deserted glory.

3. The seaside. Jumping on a tram or on my bike and heading down to the beach in August is far more fun than in June or July, when everyone else seems to have the same idea.  Many of the beaches at Alimos, or futher down towards Glyfada or Vouliagmeni, are just perfect for an August swim.

4. No traffic. See #2 above.

4a. Finding parking. Ditto above. For those late-late-night drinks under the Acropolis.

5. No line-ups. At the supermarket, at the bank, at Mikel café in the morning. Yes, this matters to me.

6. August sales. Since I didn’t spend my savings on a week away, surely I have some left-over Euros for 50-60% off at my favourite shop?

7. The pace. In August, everything (and everyone) seems to move more slowly. There is a leisurely, uber-relaxed vibe, that causes me to stop and, quite literally, smell the roses.

Would I prefer to be dancing on the beach on some far-away island? Perhaps. But August in Athens offers its own pleasures, and is a perfect option for those of us who are (not) stuck here.

Until next week,

Jack
 

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

This past weekend was no exception, and even more than usual given the number of tourists in the city. The historic centre was literally packed with people, out for a stroll, a bite to eat, a drink – all under the serene glare of the August moon. I took a group of visiting friends out for a stroll, and ended up perched on a rock at the Areopagus hill, taking in the incredible view. There really is a strange and wonderful energy when so many people are out at night, taking in a scene that has been repeated over millennia.

Later on, giving in to requests of ‘let’s go dancing!’, we drove down the coast to Akrotiri Boutique, a staple Athenian sea-side club/restaurant.  It’s one of those beach-side, open air places, with banquettes and tables, all outdoor, light show, dance music and great vibes.  Although it’s been around for years, it still survives and continues to put on a great party. We asked for a table, which implies buying a bottle of alcohol. At €90 for a bottle of vodka, shared among 5 people, the price was more than acceptable.

We arrived at 11:00pm, quite early by Greek standards, to find the club almost empty. We wondered whether we had hit an ‘off night’. Nonetheless, within an hour or so, the place was absolutely jumping with people of all ages. There were plenty of expats around too, including a 20-something girl from Boston who had only arrived in Athens that same afternoon, and was already wondering how she would adjust to life back home (“…join the club, my dear…”)

The fireworks at 1:00am were a nice touch – my tourist friends were quite pleased.  And dancing outside until the wee hours was just what the doctor ordered…

August in Athens  - you may wish you were on an island somewhere, but let’s face it, it’s still a good time.

Until next week,

Jack

Akrotiri Boutique

www.akrotirilounge.gr

Agios Kosmas (Alimos)

+30 210 985 9147/9

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

 
One of our group of expats brought along a friend named Grigoris. Our sushi afternoon quickly turned into an exploration of the expat experience versus the ‘native’ Greek experience – what are the differences, what are the similarities? Someone made the point that, as expats, we have chosen to live here (in most cases), and so our mindset is immediately different from a local Greek who has emotional/familial ties to ‘home’ here.

While this may be the case, Grigoris had a different perspective. Grigoris was born and raised in Athens. Now in his late-30s, he juggles 2 jobs - as a realtor and as a production coordinator in the movie business. As he puts it, ‘…and still it’s not enough…’ Having lived in Greece his whole life, he nonetheless speaks perfect almost unaccented English (I even asked where he had lived abroad). He has had several opportunities to move abroad, especially to the UK and the US, but has chosen to stay here instead, and try his best to make a life in the place he loves most. He has had many moments of confusion, where he wasn’t sure if he should stay or leave, fight or flee.  So far, he chooses to be here.
 
Grigoris has strong views about what needs to change in Greece – and what needs to remain forever unchanged. He regaled us with everything that is absolutely backwards about the Greek film industry. Not to mention the real estate field. But he has chosen to live his life here and work for change.
 
So, between spicy tuna rolls and sashimi, we agreed that making a conscious choice about living here is key to one’s mindset and to one’s ability to navigate crisis and post-crisis life in this amazing city. Clearly, having a job helps too.
 
In case you choose sushi, here are just a few choices around Athens:
 
Koi Sushi
Nikis 15, Syntagma
 
Furin Kazan
Appollonos 2, Syntagma
 
Yoko
Patriarchou Ioakeim 39, Kolonaki
 
Godzilla
Flisvos Marina, Palio Faliro

Inbi
Iraklitou 21, Kolonaki
 
Enjoy!
 
Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

In keeping with summer season, I’ve had a few visitors staying with me – the latest arrived from Canada on Sunday morning. We had a long breakfast at Hip Café in Syntagma, and wandered around the city catching up.  We commented on the number of people outside enjoying the day, the packed cafes and happy buzz in the air.

Later in the afternoon, and in light of my empty fridge, I was reminded that my local supermarket was actually OPEN on Sundays, and I could pick up some necessities. I explained to my friend that this Sunday shopping is completely new and very controversial. She reminded me that 2 decades ago the very same debate was raging in Toronto about Sunday retail laws. In 2014, nobody remembers or cares about it there, since the 7-day retail workweek is a fact of life.

Mine may be a minority view, but I’m ok with Sunday store openings.  I’m not sure if employees here are earning more money from the extended hours – but as a ‘user’, I’m pretty ok with it.

I respect all views on the subject, and appreciate that there are many. But having a day-to-day schedule that precludes me from doing many of the ‘retail’ tasks of an average week (everything from groceries to buying a pair of socks), I am absolutely in favour of Sunday openings. It’s about convenience, and as a consumer I’m in favour of convenience. Understandably, if I was an employee I might not like the extra hours. Having said that, so long as I’m being compensated for those extra hours, I might actually welcome the extra income, as little as it might be. Maybe in 20 years nobody will remember what all the fuss was about.

At the same time, if it all gets cancelled and we go back to ‘no Sunday openings’ – I can’t say I would be heart broken.

Yet another dichotomy of life in Athens?  Perhaps.  But guess what – the internet doesn't close on Sundays and I can always get my socks there.

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

He must’ve seen my concern because he pats me on the back and says, Don’t worry, you’ll be suited up.

Paul and his friend have eight hives – four of them new – and have been keeping bees for about 3 years.

Have you ever had any honey?

According to Paul, “The last year or two hasn’t seen a lot of honey produced, not just with us, but a lot of beekeepers in Greece say the same.  Bees are sensitive to environment, and some put it down to all the negativity around re: the financial crisis.  They just stop producing.”

It’s an interesting theory.  Paul and his friend also told me that bees definitely  have their own personality.  And I can believe it.  Let’s face it, bees are what keeps us all going, with their pollination.  It was Einstein who famously said: If the bee disappeared off the surface of the globe, then man would only have four years of life left. No more bees, no more pollination, no more plants, no more animals, no more man.

So, back to their personalities:  there’s the Queen – who only mates once.  She leaves the hive to mate with the Drone bees outside and comes back to lay eggs in a cell in the hive.  A Queen has a lifespan of 3 years, the rest 3 months (see?  Females are stronger).

Then there’s the Guard Bee – guards the hive – Maintenance Bees, who do exactly that. In fact, if you want a perfect example of Collectivism,  you should study bees more carefully!  We could learn a lot from them I think.

Get suited and booted before going near them, especially hive 12!

I am warned.

That’s a difficult one.  So I suggest you stay back.

They’re pointing at the infamous Hive 12.  By now, we’ve sat outside on the patio and had some juice and snacks, I’m suited up and we’re in the hive. First, the hive is ‘smoked’ (think of something similar to what they use in churches when they wave around their incense). 

This calms them down.

To read more, please visit leavingcairo.com

By Bex

One of our group started to have heart palpitations, rapid heartbeat, trouble breathing. This lead very quickly to him being flat on his back on the ground, breathing rapidly, heart racing, arm numbness, panicked.

He was travelling with full traveller's health insurance, so we called his provider and were told to go directly to the Henry Dunant Hospital. Twenty minutes later, we were there.

Fortunately, my friend was perfectly fine: not enough food, dehydrated, sunstroke and an overdose of caffeine. His heart was over-taxed, but eventually settled.

But the treatment we received at the emergency section of the hospital was great.

My friend was seen by a nurse, a cardiologist and a neurologist, each of whom did a thorough exam and diagnosis, in English. We were there for an hour in total.

The whole experience was efficient, professional, competent. Which is, I suppose, what an emergency room visit should be. OK, it's a private hospital, but the whole process was flawless: speed of admission, 'trust' & bedside manner, English language service, medical explanation and prescription, discharge process. I have been in only a handful of hospitals in my life, but I could find no fault in this visit.

Lesson 1: Eat properly, don't spend all day in the sun, and take it easy on the caffeine.

Lesson 2: Sometimes things aren't as bad as they could be.

I know that many of us have had bad experiences with the Greek healthcare system; I have heard endless horror stories and reasons to complain - from both the public and the private hospital system. Last weekend, I had the opposite experience - and it's important to share that too.

Until next week,

Jack

Hospital "Henry Dunant" (Νοσοκομείο "ΕΡΡΙΚΟΣ ΝΤΥΝΑΝ")
107 Mesogion Ave.
Tel: +30 210 6972000
www.dunant.gr

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

And to New York, to Toronto, to Melbourne and apparently everyone else where there are Greeks communities. Social media is full of videos of enthusiastic Greek fans absolutely overflowing with excitement and pride. And probably lots of beer.

Speaking with Dutch, Argentinean, Swiss, even Costa Rican friends, it seems the spirit of friendly (and very serious) competition is alive and well no matter which flag you fly – and it’s all in the name of the beautiful game. And I think that’s great.

I was watching the Greece/Costa Rica match at a friend’s place on Sunday. When the game when into overtime, someone said, “We should be watching this from a bar.” The rest of us agreed. When the overtime stretched into penalties, we jumped off the couch and raced outside to the nearest café. The place was packed with excited fans, chattering and cheering. The energy was palpable. After each successive score, the cheers got louder… The result was heart breaking, but the pride of achievement remained.

There is something awesome about joining together with random strangers to celebrate ‘us’, that elusive feeling that comes when ‘one of our own’ is striving, against the odds, and succeeding – on our behalf. When the Greek players requested that their FIFA bonuses be donated to build a home for the national team in Athens, it only served to boost the feeling.

So, this week was mostly about national pride (the best kind, based on achievement), celebrating the underdog, and cheering to our hearts’ content. The eventual result was less important than the virtual bond shared by everyone waving a blue and white flag, wherever they might be in the world. There was a great image shared during the Costa Rica game, of a (non-Greek?) fan with the words ‘Vamos Grecia!’ painted in blue across her forehead. What could be better?

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

SoleBike is a start-up that provides ‘curated’ tours of Athens. These are specially designed routes within the historic centre, narrated with interesting stories by the tour leader. Everyone wears a helmet with a ‘hifi’ receiver in one ear – so you can hear the leader and hear the traffic!

We had a very nice ride through the historical centre of Athens (Plaka, Thiseio, Keramikos, etc.), and we (all 6 of us) loved it. We know Athens really well, but our guide took us on a nice route and into some streets that we didn't know at all. And all the while with some great commentary and interesting stories of the sites we were seeing.

The e-bike is perfect for Athens.  The hills, the heat, the great effort of it all: no problem for an e-bike. And by the way, you can buy these e-bikes too. What an interesting replacement for your car… Charge it up and off you go.

I’m an avid cyclist, so I’m quite used to riding in Athens. But for those who think that riding a bike in Athens is a bad idea, it turns out it can be a great idea, especially with some well-planned and carefully designed routes. We were in car-free zones for the entire tour, and felt more than safe. If you want to get a flavour of Athens without hiking around the city (and without breaking a sweat), I highly recommend.

Afterwards we wandered around the corner onto Porinou Street and happened upon Hitchcocktales – a bar/restaurant/café that may just become a favourite. A beautifully restored interior with some gorgeous design touches – friendly service, cool atmosphere and it sounds like some fun weekend parties. I will go back.

Now if they could only invent an electric motor boost to get me out of bed in the morning…

SoleBike
Lempesi 11
+30 210 92 15 620
http://www.solebike.eu/

 
Hitchcocktales
Porinou 10
http://www.hitchcocktales.com/
https://www.facebook.com/hitchcocktales

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…