Fresh, edgy and arty, Keramikos is reinventing itself as the new gallery and gourmet quarter of Athens. Art influencer Rebecca Camhi paints a picture.

Rebecca Camhi moved to Keramikos in 2008, long before the gentrification of this gritty, graffiti-lined neighbourhood kicked in. She lives in a sky-blue townhouse that doubles as a gallery and design shop, selling one-of-a-kind ceramics, jewellery, kaftans and cushions. “The area is changing rapidly,” says Camhi. “It’s full of incredible abandoned buildings that are ripe for restoration.” Slowly, these derelict houses and mid-century apartments are being converted into galleries, workshops, bars and restaurants, popping up among the Egyptian hookah bars, no-frills Cretan meze joints, and Chinese grocers. “Visiting artists love the area,” says Camhi. “It’s fresh and different, edgy, scruffy, and even a little seedy in parts, not so exposed to tourists. It’s also one of the most diverse neighbourhoods in Athens, opening up an exciting new chapter in the city’s history.”

Galleries

Take a day to wander around the galleries in Keramikos. A couple of blocks from my gallery, The Breeder is a beautiful space designed by the architect Aris Zambikos and the shows are just as cool. Atopos CVC is a multi-disciplinary space in a neoclassical building and there’s always lots going on there. The Municipal Art Gallery, once a silk factory, is home the city’s modern art collection. Most galleries are closed Sunday and Monday and some spaces are only open by appointment, so check before you go.

Seychelles

I always take visitors to this restaurant and they always love it. In the summer, you can sit outside on Platia Avdi, a huge square that’s the heart of the neighbourhood. Be patient; you may have a long wait for your food, but it will be worth it. They serve Greek dishes with a twist, including an amazing selection of Greek cheeses. Seychelles is open for lunch or dinner but do book ahead—it’s packed even on a Monday night. You can always have a drink at Ble Papagalos, a café-bar across the square, while you’re waiting for a table.

Address: 49 Keramikou, Keramikos, 104 36
Telephone: 211 1834789

Tamarind

After a week of feta and grilled fish, you might be in the mood for something spicier. This cosy, unpretentious Thai place, run by the lovely Angela, has great atmosphere and service. The green curries are divine.

Address: 51 Keramikou, Keramikos, 104 36
Telephone: 210 5225945

Chorologie

This fantastic dance school is run by professional dancers and choreographers with international careers. You can take ballet, jazz and contemporary dance lessons with incredible views of the Parthenon from the studio. If you’re into dance, also check out the Arroyo Nuevo flamenco school nearby, a beautiful loft space in an old car-repair shop.

Address: 76 Peiraios, Keramikos, 104 35
Telephone: 210 5231060

Sto Vathos Kipos

If you’re renting a place with a kitchen, stock up on organic produce at this cute, bright orange store run by two brothers, Loukas and Stefanos Skoulikaris. I do all my grocery shopping here. Look out for the organic loaves from Betty’s Bread. The name of the shop means 'garden at the rear', and there really is a secret garden behind the shop. If you’re into fresh, local produce, do check out the farmer’s market every Tuesday.

Address: 99 Keramikou, Keramikos, 104 35
Telephone: 213 0235776

Latraac Skate Park

This skate bowl has a little café in the yard that does a really good Sunday brunch. You can eat poached eggs and pancakes while you watch the skaters showing off. This unique spot in Athens is the brainchild of architect Zachos Varfis, who designed Athens' first skate bowl using floor wood from an old building and site debris. Latraac frequently hosts DJ sets and you never know which famous skateboarder you'll find whirling on its track.

Address: 63-64 Leonidou, Keramikos, 104 35
Telephone: 213 0453377

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This content was originally published on This is Athens

Whether you’ve just arrived in town – or have been here for years – Athens always has new secrets to share! This is Athens is the official guide to this captivating city of ancient energies and booming urban culture. Compiled by a team of specialist local writers, This is Athens brings you an authentic and intimate portrait of a living Athens beyond the guidebooks – along with daily curated listings of all the best events and great weekend inspiration all-year round. From must-know neighbourhoods and emerging art hubs, to gourmet hotspots, cool shopping and the buzziest bars, This is Athens will help you to get the most out of living in Athens!

Thank you This is Athens for your contribution as an XpatAthens Partner.

Old school tavernas, all-day bars, punk bistros and a classic outdoor cinema. Editor and publisher Kimon Frangakis spotlights eclectic Petralona.

Petralona, and especially its upper half of Ano Petralona, is a neighbourhood often quoted as an example of contemporary Athenian gentrification. However, this is far from the truth since Ano Petralona always was, and remains, a charming residential area. Built on the foot of the Philopappou Hill hugging the Acropolis, below the ancient settlement of Koile, Ano Petralona has a truly Athenian vibe. This is why the addresses worth visiting are those with a neighbourhood feel, rather than the faux traditional joints that have sprung up in the last few years.

Oikonomou

Arguably the neighbourhood’s bedrock, it is an institution which has been going strong for almost a century. Although the eponymous Mr. Oikonomou still lives above the restaurant, business has been in the hands of the colourful Mr. Kostas Diamandis for two decades—a "they don’t make ‘em like they used to” Greek, with a dry sense of humour and a big, kind heart. In the open kitchen, the female cook, Garyfallia, dishes out no-nonsense family fare such as roast baby lamb with waxy-lemony potatoes, rabbit casserole, or stuffed cabbage leaves (beef and rice) in a silky egg and lemon (avgolemono) sauce. Don’t be shy to ask for wine from the “reserve” barrel in the basement, and make sure you try some of the amber-red quince preserve Kostas makes himself, for dessert.

Address: 32 Kydantidon, Ano Petralona, 118 51
Telephone: 210 3467555

Blue Bamboo

Much more than your average round-the-corner Thai, this is a place for rubbing elbows (the larger tables/benches are for sharing) with some cool characters from the Athenian arty milieu. Well-heeled customers from the northern suburbs also tend to flock here in search of neighbourhood authenticity and always end up paying a little more than they expected mainly because of the nice cocktails. (The wine list is in fact quite uninspired.) The food is always good and consistent. Sit at the bar and watch the action unfold in the open kitchen right behind, as a tableau vivant. Specials include elegantly presented red and green curries, a mean larb gai (shredded chicken and mint salad), and a very reliable Pad Thai.

Address: 24 Kydantidon, Petralona, 118 51
Telephone: 210 3423124

Zefyros Cinema

One of Athens' oldest and most loved open-air cinemas, with a recurring repertoire of neo-realist, nouvelle vague and even Soviet classics. It doesn’t have the Acropolis view of the famous Thissio cinema nearby, but it doesn’t attract so many tourists either. If you want to feel like a true Athenian, come here on the warmest night and drink beer under the stars. Never mind if you have watched what’s on before—that’s beside the point.

Address: 36 Troon, Petralona, 118 51
Telephone: 210 3462677

Klouvi

The coolest of the area’s bars, this 'cage' as it’s named in Greek, is a neighbourhood dive that somehow managed to get a full revamp without losing its relaxed attitude. Don’t let the unfussy crowd fool you: the bartenders here are quite crafty with cocktails. Try the potent Negroni for a generous aperitif. If you don’t mind the indoor smoking, this is also a good option to hit the bar later in the evening for a nightcap, after dining in the neighbourhood’s various eateries.

Address: 21 Kydantidon, Petralona, 118 51
Telephone: 210 3479998

Chryssa

The 'grande dame' of Petralona, Mrs. Chryssa, used to run the best (and only) sophisticated restaurant of Ano Petralona, before it was cool. Following the lifestyle curve to nearby Keramikos, she moved her business to that grungier neighbourhood—only to return to Ano Petralona a couple of years ago. This time her restaurant is smaller and less ambitious, but she still offers a decent alternative to most commonplace tavernas nearby, with her gentle manners and light touch. Her best sellers include an elegant rendering of the chicken souvlaki, fava with capers and sun-dried tomato, and homemade cheesecake with honey.

Address: 40 Eoleon, Petralona, 118 52
Telephone: 213 0356879

To Theio Tragi

This self-proclaimed 'punk bistro' serves food as creative (if slightly over-complicated) as the term suggests. (The restaurant’s name literally translates as “The Holy Billy Goat”, borrowed from a poem by Yiannis Skarimbas.) If all that sounds a little too hip, bear in mind that the establishment is well priced and the innovative menu is short and changes regularly. A little stuffy in the summer, it is a nice option for a date on a winter night, with a glass of wine by an independent Greek producer at the bar, and some 'punk’d' dishes (like organic chicken with banana, chestnut and sage or custard with sharp Naxos cheese, caramel and almonds) to share.

Address: 36 Kydantidon, Petralona, 118 51
Telephone: 210 3410296

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This content was originally published on This is Athens

Whether you’ve just arrived in town – or have been here for years – Athens always has new secrets to share! This is Athens is the official guide to this captivating city of ancient energies and booming urban culture. Compiled by a team of specialist local writers, This is Athens brings you an authentic and intimate portrait of a living Athens beyond the guidebooks – along with daily curated listings of all the best events and great weekend inspiration all-year round. From must-know neighbourhoods and emerging art hubs, to gourmet hotspots, cool shopping and the buzziest bars, This is Athens will help you to get the most out of living in Athens!

Thank you This is Athens for your contribution as an XpatAthens Partner.

Maritime, golf, passion, energy, ideal weather conditions, and absolute safety…

Glyfada Maritime Golf Event was the first golf tournament held in 2020, to take the new health conditions prevailing in our country into consideration. Top executives of the Greek and global shipping industry competed in the beautiful and historic Golf Course of Glyfada, on Saturday, October 10, 2020.

The event was held following the strict specifications set by the General Secretariat of Sports and the Hellenic Golf Federation. Always having the safety and health of all participants and staff as a top priority, Glyfada Maritime Golf Event executed an even stricter health protocol that was established by Active Media Group’s experienced staff certified by the World Health Organization, based on the guidelines of the special scientists-collaborators of the General Secretariat of Sports as well as the epidemiological data, the suggestions and the approval of the General Secretariat of Sports’ Health Committee. Specifically, among the safety measures that were implemented were: the mandatory use of a mask by the staff and the encouragement of its use by everyone, with its free provision by the organization, although several golfers entered the course already wearing a mask showing a high sense of individual responsibility, the temperature measurements of all by the team of Target Security, the maintenance of a list of people entering and exiting the golf facility, the service of participants with a Samsung tablet and use of gloves where necessary with the mandatory cleaning after each use, the disinfection of the event’s equipment, the maintenance of predicted distances throughout the tournament and the conservation of the predicted limit of people entering to the sports facility.

In the context of the 1st Glyfada Maritime Golf Event, the recognized PGA Golfer and tournament organizer, Thanos Karantzias stated: “I am delighted that the 1 st Glyfada Maritime Golf Event was held with absolute safety and based on the strict measures we had set, receiving the best reviews from the Greek and international maritime industry, offering moments of well-being and highlighting and promoting the sport we all love, golf. I would like to thank all the sponsors, supporters, and those who worked and stood by us from the very first moment. We are renewing our appointment with everyone for 2021”.

The 1st Glyfada Maritime Golf Event received the greeting of the Deputy Minister of Culture & Sports, Mr. Lefteris Avgenakis, who among other things highlighted: “In a very critical period, when sport on a world basis is tempted by the crisis of the pandemic, it is encouraging that sport and newly-founded indeed events are realized, such as the Glyfada Maritime Golf Event, which is addressed to the marine community. The holding of this event constitutes a unique chance for the highlighting of a special sport, which in recent years sees particular development and gradually wins the hearts of more and more Greek people”.

The Golf Action

The first tournament attracted the interest of the Greek and world shipping industry as its senior executives formed teams of four taking part in a shotgun scramble tournament, in a completely safe and ideal environment. A green space, set in a landscape of low hills, large trees, and low Mediterranean vegetation. The golfers competed at a team level, at the international standards 18-hole, par 72, Golf Course of Glyfada.

Non-participants in the tournament had the opportunity to attend golf lessons and take part in the golf clinic under the guidance of professional golfers.

The tournament concluded with the awarding of prizes to the teams that took the top three places in the overall standings of the tournament and the special awards given to the players who achieved the best scores in the “Longest Drive” and “Closest to the Pin” special categories. Specifically, the team of Sorotos, Chrousalas, Emmanuel, and Morris finished 1 st with 104 points, the team of Papadopoulos, Robbs, Kyvernitis, and Ventouris was 2 and with 103 points while the team of Robbs, Coustas, Daskalakis, and Kechagias received the 3 rd place with 96 points. The Closest to the pin award was given to Charalampos Ventouris whereas the Longest Drive award was won by Stergios Kavalekas.

The schedule of the event was enriched with special gifts from sponsors and surprises for participants. In particular, the winners of the special categories and the first three teams were offered prizes by Samsung, Porsche Center Glyfada, Christhellas-Christofle, Messinian Spa, and Ergon. In addition, a lucky winner won a test-drive and of course the experience of the Porsche Panamera Turbo S e-Hybrid Sport Turismo for an entire weekend, after a draw. During the event, participants tested the full range of Porsche cars that were available in the Glyfada Golf course parking space, while also having the opportunity to discover the new all-electric Taycan inside the golf course.

Jotun Hellas is the event’s Platinum Sponsor.

Samsung and The Marshall Islands Registry IRI are the tournament’s Silver Sponsors.

Porsche Center Glyfada is the Official Car Partner.

Marine Tours is the Official Travel Partner.

Tototheo Maritime and Handy Chart are the event’s Supporters.

Avance is the Official Rental Partner.

Boo Productions is the Audio Visual Partner.

Target Security is the Security Partner.

Messinian Spa is the Official Beauty Partner.

Hygeia is the Medical Partner.

Costa Navarino, Athina Luxury Suites, Christhellas–Christofle, Domotel Kastri, Ergon, Kokotos Estate, Athi Rodi, Kayak, Stella Artois, Cortese Caffe, Zafeiris Liquor Store, and Automotive Solutions are the event’s Partners.

Active Media Group is responsible for the tournament’s Sports Production.

Photo Credit: Boo Productions

All proceeds from entry fees were allocated for the improvement of the facilities of Glyfada Golf course. The tournament was organized by Active Media Group, an initiative of Birdie Events and the recognized Greek PGA golfer, Mr. Thanos Karantzias. The event was exclusively addressed to distinguished executives of the Greek shipping community.

Hashtag: #glyfadamaritimegolfevent

Last week, Condé Nast Traveler (CNT) published the 2020 Readers' Choice Awards survey results. Folegandros, Zakynthos, Crete, and Mykonos, dominated the Europe list of the 35 World's Best Islands outside the United States.

For its 33rd Readers' Choice Awards, Condé Nast Traveler invited 600,000 travelers to an online vote for the Top Islands in 6 areas – Asia, Australia, & the South Pacific, the Caribbean & the Atlantic, Africa & the Indian Ocean, Europe, and North America.

The magazine's readers voted Folegandros as the best island in Europe! Folegandros is a remote island of unique natural beauty and a laid-back atmosphere that has become a favorite for those seeking an authentic Greek island experience.

"Craving Santorini's famous whitewashed houses and cobblestoned streets, but without all of the crowds? Look no further than Folegandros, Santorini's smaller neighbor to the northwest by some 40 miles, which has all that and more. During the day, visit the island's most famous monument, Chrysospiliá ("Golden Cave"); if it's remote beaches you're after, try Agios Georgios or Ambeli," CNT published.

To read this article in full, please visit: greekcitytimes.com

The Keramikos Cemetery in Athens was home to the city's famous workshops, where all sorts of craftsmen exhibited and sold their work. That was 2,500 years ago. Fast forward to today, Mon Coin Studio, just a few steps away from the ancient cemetery, takes on the task of introducing contemporary Greek ceramics to the Greek audience and visitors. For its debut event, Ancient Vibes in Contemporary Ceramics, owner and ceramic artist Eleonore Trenado – Finetis has invited 35 artists and makers to participate with works that tap into ancient ceramics traditions and mythical narratives for inspiration, exploring how the “echo” of ancient Greek art resonates in contemporary creations. The works reflect on classical antiquity, the Minoan civilization, Cycladic art, and the works of primitive communities. The exhibition will also feature works by designers, jewelry designers, photographers, and visual artists. If ceramics ever knocked on your door, asking for a bit of your creativity and spare time, this sounds like the perfect time to answer.

Rising art star Joy Labinjo has made a name for herself by painting it black. This young London-based artist produces many of her large-scale figurative works from photographs of her Nigerian family and the everyday people around her.

In an art form historically overrun by white males, Labinjo is among a new wave of women of color figurative artists helping to redress the imbalance. It figures that this in-demand artist would be snapped up by The Breeder for her first solo exhibition in Athens.

Labinjo created this new body of work while under lockdown in the UK in the crucible of mass protests around Black Lives Matter. Fresh and arresting, her creations echo her dual identity: growing up Black, British, Nigerian in the 90s and early Noughties. You’ll see these intimate paintings, alongside works Labinjo made on paper in Athens while participating in The Breeder’s Open Studio program - where visitors were able to meet the artist and observe her in action.

Dates & Hours

Tuesday – Friday 12.00-20.00; Saturday 12.00-18.00 

Theorimata, the exhibition/institution by AICA Hellas, the Greek Section of the International Association of Art Critics, AICA International, is presented for the second time at the National Museum of Contemporary Art Athens (EMST), from October 1 until November 1, 2020, in the EMST Temporary Exhibitions Space.

The first exhibition was presented in 2018 with the aim to become a biennial event, providing the chance for curators, critics, art history scholars, and also artists to converse, collaborate and intervene in the artistic field; the theme of “Theorimata” will be differentiated each time, focusing on the characteristics and major issues of each period.

For the exhibition Theorimata 2: On History, 25 curators, scholars and art critics, members of the Greek Section of AICA, propose 56 artists who, with History as their axis, promote the function of art as an alternative educational tool and a means of dynamically intervening in the social fabric.

The idea that the knowledge of the past is an aid to the interpretation of the present and a guide to the future, asserted by Thucydides in his first book on the History of the Peloponnesian War, runs through the exhibition in which installations, constructions, sculptures, photographs, paintings, artists’ books, drawings, videos, and happenings are presented.

The exhibition will be accompanied by a bilingual catalog (in Greek and English) with introductory texts by Bia Papadopoulou and Emmanuel Mavrommatis, texts by the curators, photographs of the works, and biographies of both the curators and artists.

The collective volume Kritiki+Techni (Criticism+Art) Vol. 6: Contemporary Art and the Archive: Archival Collections, Artistic Practices, Reflections (edited by Charis Kanellopoulou) will also be published.

The Greek National Opera presents Madama Butterfly throughout October and November in Athens at the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center’s main stage.

An opera in three acts by Giacomo Puccini, Madama Butterfly is set in Japan at the beginning of the 20th century. A young geisha girl falls in love with an American Lieutenant which ultimately leads to her demise.

Puccini’s Japanese tragedy sheds light on the stark differences between the two cultures of Japan and America through the tale of fatal love.

Directed by Hugo de Ana with Puccini’s melodic composition led by conductor Lukas Karytinos and world-class soprano’s Ermonelo Jaho, Tselia Kostea, and Kristine Opolais sharing the title role.

Madama Butterly will be performed in Italian with Greek and English subtitles.

Dates & Hours

10, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20, 23, 25, 30 October 2020

01, 08, 15 November 2020

Performances start at 20:00 (Sunday’s at 18:30pm)

Are you looking for an interesting place to visit that is both outdoors and close to Athens? I suggest a visit to the archaeological site of Vravrona in southeast Attica.  The landscape here is diverse with vineyards, pistachio trees, pine trees, olive orchards, and rocky shores.

As you near the ancient site, you’ll encounter fruit and vegetable stands where the produce is grown just meters away from the stand. Near to the archaeological site of Vravrona there is a large parking area.

As you enter the grounds on foot, after about 50 meters you’ll find the museum on your left. If you keep walking down the path for another 100-150 meters or so, you’ll reach the archaeological grounds. The entrance fee is 6 euro for adults and free for children. This ticket includes a visit to both the museum and the archaeological site. Inside the museum, of course, you’ll need to wear a mask and no more than a certain number of people are allowed in each of the museum’s rooms, to maintain a safe distance from others.

 

The museum is small, clean, and well organized. There are five large rooms that feature archaeological finds not only from Vravrona but from surrounding areas as well, including Anavyssos and Perati. The exhibits cover the period from the Bronze Age until the Roman times. You’ll see vases, idols, and statues of young boys and girls.

The sculptures from the sanctuary of Artemis are of the most important finds. A few tactile sculptures have also been created to provide access to the original artwork for visitors with low vision or blindness. 

The ancient temple of Artemis was an important sacred site in ancient times. In the Doric-style temple, the goddess was worshipped and considered to be the protector of nature and women, as well as protector of childbirth. Women who had good deliveries would offer clothes and other personal items to the goddess Artemis. 

If you take a walk through the prehistoric acropolis above the temple of Artemis, you will get a panoramic view of the Erasinos valley and the surrounding area. 

You can also walk from the Vravrona Museum to the mavros vrachos [μαύρος βράχος] or ‘black rock,’ a low mountain beside the Erasinos River estuary. From here there is a great view of the wetlands and the southern Euboean Gulf. In the spring, there are beautiful wildflowers everywhere. You can even take a pony ride to explore the area.

The wetland and surrounding area of Vravrona also fall under the Natura 2000 Network. Click here to read about the protection and promotion of the Vravrona Wetland.

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About Eleni Maria Georgiou

Eleni Maria Georgiou is an independent writer and publishing professional devoted to creating books that are creative, original, and modern.  

Passionate about Athens and all the city has to offer, for four exciting years, I co-managed XpatAthens. This experience inspired me to write my first book, Eleni’s GREEK PHRASE BOOK: A Beginner's Guide to Greek Culture and the Greek Language in 2018, sparking the birth of Lenacke Press. I continue to write, think about, and publish creative and original books, adding to the Lenacke Press collection. 

In addition, since 2004, I have been running fixyourenglish.com, a business that provides Editing, Proofreading, and Translation services.

I currently live in Athens, Greece with my husband and two kids. I am fluent in both English and Greek and interested in learning more languages. I like organizing and attending community group events, reading, listening to podcasts and audiobooks, writing, lifting weights, and going hiking.

The award-winning sports tourism event Navarino Challenge, with a high sense of responsibility towards its participants and visitors, announces the postponement of the event to October 15-17, 2021, taking into consideration the epidemiological data and current health conditions prevailing in our country, despite designing and getting the necessary approvals for the strict health protocols.

Registered athletes and participants will receive relevant email communication from the event, whereas those interested can learn news and read all announcements directly through Navarino Challenge’s communication channels.

Navarino Challenge is held under the auspices of the Greek National Tourism Organization, with the support of the Pylos-Nestor Municipality. Navarino Challenge has joined the Greek actions of the #BeactiveHellas 2020 program of the European Commission and is held under the auspices of the General Secretariat of Sports. All running races are co-organized with Messiniakos Gymnastic Club and EAS SEGAS Peloponnese Region.

Samsung is the Official Technology Partner.

Vikos Natural Mineral Water is the event’s Official Sponsor.

Luanvi is the Official Sports Supplier.

Pylos-Nestor Municipality, Poseidonia, Karalis Beach Hotel are Navarino Challenge’s Official Supporters.

Messinian Spa is the Official Beauty Partner.

On is the Official Shoe Partner.

Nestlé FITNESS® is the Official Breakfast Partner.

Target Security, Fysiotek Sports Lab are the event’s Partners.

Avance is the Official Car Rental Partner.

SKAI is the Premium TV Partner.

National Geographic is the Strategic Partner.

24MEDIA is the Premium Media Partner.

Deree - The American College of Greece is the Educational Partner. 
Explore Messinia, FitnessArt, Navarino Golf Academy, Navarino Outdoors, Navarino Racquet Academy, Pilates by Mandy, Red Swim Academy, Swim Academy, Triantafyllidis Beach Arena, Vizantinos target sport club, Marathon Team Greece are Navarino Challenge’s Athletic Partners.

Navarino Challenge is assisted by Vita N Travel, Karalis City Hotel & Spa, Lifeguard Patrol, Pylos Association of Enterprises for Tourism Development, Maritime Athletic Pylos Association “Nestor”, Pilia Express, Kayak.

Anazoe Spa, Attica Selections, Kessaris, Nargile, Panellinios Agora Games are the Discount Partners.

Active Media Group is responsible for the event’s Sports Production.

Photo Credit: Elias Lefas

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