He must’ve seen my concern because he pats me on the back and says, Don’t worry, you’ll be suited up.

Paul and his friend have eight hives – four of them new – and have been keeping bees for about 3 years.

Have you ever had any honey?

According to Paul, “The last year or two hasn’t seen a lot of honey produced, not just with us, but a lot of beekeepers in Greece say the same.  Bees are sensitive to environment, and some put it down to all the negativity around re: the financial crisis.  They just stop producing.”

It’s an interesting theory.  Paul and his friend also told me that bees definitely  have their own personality.  And I can believe it.  Let’s face it, bees are what keeps us all going, with their pollination.  It was Einstein who famously said: If the bee disappeared off the surface of the globe, then man would only have four years of life left. No more bees, no more pollination, no more plants, no more animals, no more man.

So, back to their personalities:  there’s the Queen – who only mates once.  She leaves the hive to mate with the Drone bees outside and comes back to lay eggs in a cell in the hive.  A Queen has a lifespan of 3 years, the rest 3 months (see?  Females are stronger).

Then there’s the Guard Bee – guards the hive – Maintenance Bees, who do exactly that. In fact, if you want a perfect example of Collectivism,  you should study bees more carefully!  We could learn a lot from them I think.

Get suited and booted before going near them, especially hive 12!

I am warned.

That’s a difficult one.  So I suggest you stay back.

They’re pointing at the infamous Hive 12.  By now, we’ve sat outside on the patio and had some juice and snacks, I’m suited up and we’re in the hive. First, the hive is ‘smoked’ (think of something similar to what they use in churches when they wave around their incense). 

This calms them down.

To read more, please visit leavingcairo.com

By Bex

One of our group started to have heart palpitations, rapid heartbeat, trouble breathing. This lead very quickly to him being flat on his back on the ground, breathing rapidly, heart racing, arm numbness, panicked.

He was travelling with full traveller's health insurance, so we called his provider and were told to go directly to the Henry Dunant Hospital. Twenty minutes later, we were there.

Fortunately, my friend was perfectly fine: not enough food, dehydrated, sunstroke and an overdose of caffeine. His heart was over-taxed, but eventually settled.

But the treatment we received at the emergency section of the hospital was great.

My friend was seen by a nurse, a cardiologist and a neurologist, each of whom did a thorough exam and diagnosis, in English. We were there for an hour in total.

The whole experience was efficient, professional, competent. Which is, I suppose, what an emergency room visit should be. OK, it's a private hospital, but the whole process was flawless: speed of admission, 'trust' & bedside manner, English language service, medical explanation and prescription, discharge process. I have been in only a handful of hospitals in my life, but I could find no fault in this visit.

Lesson 1: Eat properly, don't spend all day in the sun, and take it easy on the caffeine.

Lesson 2: Sometimes things aren't as bad as they could be.

I know that many of us have had bad experiences with the Greek healthcare system; I have heard endless horror stories and reasons to complain - from both the public and the private hospital system. Last weekend, I had the opposite experience - and it's important to share that too.

Until next week,

Jack

Hospital "Henry Dunant" (Νοσοκομείο "ΕΡΡΙΚΟΣ ΝΤΥΝΑΝ")
107 Mesogion Ave.
Tel: +30 210 6972000
www.dunant.gr

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

And to New York, to Toronto, to Melbourne and apparently everyone else where there are Greeks communities. Social media is full of videos of enthusiastic Greek fans absolutely overflowing with excitement and pride. And probably lots of beer.

Speaking with Dutch, Argentinean, Swiss, even Costa Rican friends, it seems the spirit of friendly (and very serious) competition is alive and well no matter which flag you fly – and it’s all in the name of the beautiful game. And I think that’s great.

I was watching the Greece/Costa Rica match at a friend’s place on Sunday. When the game when into overtime, someone said, “We should be watching this from a bar.” The rest of us agreed. When the overtime stretched into penalties, we jumped off the couch and raced outside to the nearest café. The place was packed with excited fans, chattering and cheering. The energy was palpable. After each successive score, the cheers got louder… The result was heart breaking, but the pride of achievement remained.

There is something awesome about joining together with random strangers to celebrate ‘us’, that elusive feeling that comes when ‘one of our own’ is striving, against the odds, and succeeding – on our behalf. When the Greek players requested that their FIFA bonuses be donated to build a home for the national team in Athens, it only served to boost the feeling.

So, this week was mostly about national pride (the best kind, based on achievement), celebrating the underdog, and cheering to our hearts’ content. The eventual result was less important than the virtual bond shared by everyone waving a blue and white flag, wherever they might be in the world. There was a great image shared during the Costa Rica game, of a (non-Greek?) fan with the words ‘Vamos Grecia!’ painted in blue across her forehead. What could be better?

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

SoleBike is a start-up that provides ‘curated’ tours of Athens. These are specially designed routes within the historic centre, narrated with interesting stories by the tour leader. Everyone wears a helmet with a ‘hifi’ receiver in one ear – so you can hear the leader and hear the traffic!

We had a very nice ride through the historical centre of Athens (Plaka, Thiseio, Keramikos, etc.), and we (all 6 of us) loved it. We know Athens really well, but our guide took us on a nice route and into some streets that we didn't know at all. And all the while with some great commentary and interesting stories of the sites we were seeing.

The e-bike is perfect for Athens.  The hills, the heat, the great effort of it all: no problem for an e-bike. And by the way, you can buy these e-bikes too. What an interesting replacement for your car… Charge it up and off you go.

I’m an avid cyclist, so I’m quite used to riding in Athens. But for those who think that riding a bike in Athens is a bad idea, it turns out it can be a great idea, especially with some well-planned and carefully designed routes. We were in car-free zones for the entire tour, and felt more than safe. If you want to get a flavour of Athens without hiking around the city (and without breaking a sweat), I highly recommend.

Afterwards we wandered around the corner onto Porinou Street and happened upon Hitchcocktales – a bar/restaurant/café that may just become a favourite. A beautifully restored interior with some gorgeous design touches – friendly service, cool atmosphere and it sounds like some fun weekend parties. I will go back.

Now if they could only invent an electric motor boost to get me out of bed in the morning…

SoleBike
Lempesi 11
+30 210 92 15 620
http://www.solebike.eu/

 
Hitchcocktales
Porinou 10
http://www.hitchcocktales.com/
https://www.facebook.com/hitchcocktales

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

Filistron is a taverna on the Apostolou Pavlou pedestrian path – access the rooftop via the stairway to the side of the main entrance. The night I was there, the rooftop was packed, and they only just managed to fit three of us at a small table for two. We did not mind at all, as the view was worth it. I must say, even minus the view, Filistron has a delicious ‘higher end’ taverna menu. It’s not the cheapest taverna around, but I would go back for the octopus alone. Definitely book ahead here.

Lazy as I am, I then took my friends about 10 metres away from Filistron for a drink at Chocolat Royal. This one is a lounge/café/restaurant, with a labyrinthine interior, that takes you up elevators and stairs and even past the kitchen, until you emerge onto the rooftop. The night we were there it wasn’t busy at all – friendly service, restaurant menu. I wouldn’t hurry back, but it was certainly a place to keep on the list for a quiet evening with a glass of wine.

Sunday afternoon with foreign visitors in town means one thing: a visit to A For Athens. By now this has become Athens most famous rooftop, and the place is worth a visit for the view alone. Which, given its popularity, is all we managed on Sunday. No available tables, but worth the effort for the Instagram shots.

I’ve listed a few great rooftops below – most are quite well known. Some are always busy (A For Athens), others are less so (Central Hotel), and some are must-dos for every visitor and resident of Athens (Lycabettus Hill at sunset). All have great views, and are great spots to take visitors – and even pass muster for most of us locals…

Some say Athens looks better from 20 meters up. I’m starting to believe it.

Filistron (reservation recommended)
23 Apostolou Pavlou
+30 2103422897
www.filistron.com

Chocolat Royal
27 Apostolou Pavlou
+30 210 346 9077
www.chocolatroyal.gr

Thissio View
25 Apostolou Pavlou
+30 2103476754
http://www.thissioview.gr

A For Athens
2-4 Miaouli Str., Monastiraki Square
+30 210 32 44 244
www.aforathens.com

360
2 Ifaistou Str., Monastiraki Square
+30 210 321 0006
www.three-sixty.gr

Central Hotel
Apollonos 21, Plaka
+30 210 3234357
www.centralhotel.gr

Lycabettus Café
Head to Lycabettus Hill, and go up :)

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

This past weekend was just like that. We threw a few things in a bag on Friday afternoon, filled up the gas tank, and took off. Destination: the island of Poros.

We have all heard of the island chain nearest Athens – the Argo-Saronic islands of Aegina, Hydra, Spetses, Poros, Salamina. These are close enough to Athens to make a single day trip ferry crossing (morning to evening) absolutely easy and a real pleasure. There are numerous companies offering ‘one day cruises’ to 2-3 of these islands, leaving from Piraeus or Flisvos – also well worth it, especially with out-of-town friends.

We decided to head for Poros, but not via Piraeus. We drove around the coast into the Peloponnese, past Corinth, through Epidauros, and ended up 2 hours later and after a breathtaking coastal drive in the little town of Galata. Galata, as it happens, is directly across from Poros, not more than 300m across a narrow strait, with ferries and water taxis taking you across every 15 minutes, all night long… The ferries take you over with your car (€5.00 for car + 2 passengers), or the water taxis take you over if you are on foot (€1.00). 

We stayed in Galata on the mainland, only because I found a good deal on hotel rooms.  It’s equally convenient to stay on either side of the strait – find a place that you like and book it.

Poros is a lovely island – small, relaxed, quaint and home to lots of mooring yachts and sailboats. I would not call it ‘posh’, but it was certainly a nice place to be. It really came alive at night (as does most of Greece!), when everyone was out to enjoy a nice meal and a wander around the town. It’s an easy place to stay, it feels like a Greek island, and it’s even a place that families with young kids would enjoy. A ‘no brainer’ destination, as I like to say – no thought needed, just go.

After 24 hours there, and feeling ambitious about my Sunday, we decided to take the scenic route home, driving further along into Porto Heli (really liked!) and parking the car in the tiny port of Kosta, before jumping on the 15 minute ferry across to Spetses. Yes, 15 minutes and €2.00 to cross. Another no brainer.

Spetses is even a cut above Poros – lots of nice shops, a bit of a ‘higher end’ feel, no cars (99%...) and seemingly plenty to do in terms of beaches, activities.  But we stayed 2-3 hours, had a nice coffee and a bite of lunch, wandered around and snapped some picture, and then headed back across to my car.  The drive back to Athens from Kosta took about 2.5 hours, but still an easy drive – and I must say another beautiful picturesque drive.

The point is this: these islands are nice, they are easy to get to, and you wouldn't need to spend more than a day or two there – so maybe it’s time to plan your next weekend away? If you’ve been, you know what I mean. If you’ve never been, you should.

I didn’t mention the other constant element of the Weekend Away: the fact that most other people had the same idea, and that the traffic leaving the city was almost enough to make me want to turn back.

Almost.

Until next week,

Jack

Athens One Day Cruises
http://onedaycruise.gr/

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

We are fiercely loyal to our Local, and love bringing our friends and visitors there – although sometimes, if we’re honest, they might not understand our fascination with the place!

My own local is a place called Riza. Technically, I would say it qualifies as a ‘tsipouradiko’ or ‘rakadiko’, a place one goes to drink tsipouro or raki, accompanied by a little snack to off-set the booze (!).

So yes, you can get tsipouro here – or raki, or ouzo or wine. But this is not the whole story.

Riza looks cool. The owner has an obvious creative flair, and has infused the little place with whimsical touches, a careful understated aesthetic, creative musical choices (on vinyl!), and a undeniable feeling of ‘post-modern Athens’. So your eyes and ears and drink cup will be satisfied.

But what has kept me going back has nothing to do with the above. Riza has what is clearly a magician in the kitchen. The food is absolutely simple and absolutely delicious. (And, to be clear, nobody is paying me to write this.)

Here’s the thing – the menu is tiny. With no more than 8 or 10 selections, it is handwritten into recycled/repurposed books – lately, old children’s readers – literally scribbled and erased with the changing menu. And the menu does change, all the time, with whatever is fresh and local.  I would normally say ‘Oh, try the ___’, but at Riza that doesn’t always work. So, instead, without hesitation, ‘Oh, try everything…’  Delicious little sharing plates, a basket of fresh bread, and a wine-soaked afternoon in a friendly place under a tree – seriously, this what the Local is all about.

And the prices? I wont bother printing them here, since they are too good to be true. Let’s just say your wallet will thank you.

So next time you’re in Thisio and want a drink under a tree, and some lip-smacking meze… See you at my Local ;)

Riza
Iraklidon 7, Thisio, 11851
Phone: 213 023 7101
Facebook: http://tinyurl.com/opef866

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

It’s a good 30km trek (and yes I am helmeted, protected and very careful!). Along the way I often think about how nice it would be to have even a few bicycle-friendly streets, a few more green spaces, maybe something architecturally interesting to look at along the way, basically anything that looks like development, change, renewal.

At the same time, I have equally frequent parallel thoughts about all the things that are happening around – painted buildings, new cafes/restaurants, cleaned up streets, start-ups, entrepreneur help-groups, etc.  It’s not a 180-degree change, and it doesn’t mean the problems are solved, but it’s certainly ‘something’…

In truth, there are some significant large-scale projects underway and announced, that promise to re-vamp and re-invent the face and reputation of Athens.

The Stavros Niarchos Cultural Center, already well underway, will include a new home for the National Opera and the National Library of Greece – amid lots of green space, all the way down to the waterfront… Take a look here: http://tinyurl.com/q248ju9

The Rethink Athens project is by now quite well known. I’m not sure what the progress is on this one, but it’s got a lot of eyes on it! http://www.rethinkathens.org/eng/project

And in case you haven’t heard yet, the old airport land at Hellinikon has been slated for redevelopment – unarguably a massive investment by Lamda Development, and one that surely has ‘world class’ stamped all over it. Check out the promo video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BmNlh2g_W8

I love what Willem Sodderland has to say in his blog – definitely some food for thought: http://tinyurl.com/nx58nep

But is all this ‘development’ or ‘dreams’? Why can’t it be both? My glass may not be half full, but it’s getting there…

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

There is something special about the start of May – it’s the weather, it’s the greening of the landscape, it’s the flowers in bloom everywhere, it’s the great energy of everyone, it’s the promise that summer is around the corner. It’s also the crazy cats doing their business on every corner and some interesting looking bugs on the street…

The whole weekend I was struck by something that seemed unusual, or rather ‘unseasonal’: the huge number of tourists in the city!  I began to notice this a couple weeks ago, but this past weekend left no doubt. Athens is back on the tourism map. Having been through the airport a few times over the past couple weeks, I can also say that the place is packed…

It seems Greek tourism is in all the headlines too – locally and internationally. Even the New York Times put Athens on its must-see list for 2014 (http://tinyurl.com/mgsgllo). That must deserve a thank-you from someone…

Here are some more recent headlines from a random search:

·      ‘Greece’s Market Return mirrors return of tourists’

·      ‘Tourism in Greece beats competition’

·      ‘Tourism Boom drives Greece to first surplus’

·      ‘Greek Tourism set for a record year’

·      ‘Greece sets positive signs for tourism’

Is it possible? Is it possible that all those people scared off by tales of violence and empty ATM machines are booking their EasyJet flights? Should we believe this out-pouring of positive feeling from abroad? Will this summer be one for the record books?

Well, it’s May and the answer – for now at least – seems to be a resounding yes. So hats off and smiles on for the tourists – they are everywhere…

In the meantime, if you’re looking to freshen up your springtime nightlife, or for cool new places to take your visiting friends, check out some of the many new bars that have popped up around the city: http://tinyurl.com/lbxgstp  (in Greek, but you’ll get the picture…)

Kalo mina to all…

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

By Saturday evening, I was itching to get out of the house (as unadvisable as it may have been), so I gave in to the insistence of my neighbourhood friends and joined them for the pre-midnight Anastasi service.  We went to Agia Marina, the church at the top of the hill in Thiseio – the one that is lit up every night and can be seen from the Apostolou Pavlou pedestrian path…
 
I’ve been there before; it’s a beautiful church built around the actual cave from the original structure. On the night of the Anastasi service, there was a special feeling at the church – lots of people, darkness inside, chanting – a ‘religious’ feeling to be sure.
 
After midnight, after the candle lighting and well wishes, most of the people poured out of the church and made their way to their homes and to their cars, down the quiet, deserted streets of Thiseio, candles in hand. This, for me, was a sight to see - almost romantic with the flickering of little flames and whispering voices…

On Sunday I joined a small group of ‘orphaned expats’ for a nice midday meal (lamb yes, but the kind one cooks in the oven – we are not so talented as to know how to operate a spit!). We went out for an afternoon stroll, expecting to find the city empty and shut down. What we saw was quite the opposite: many restaurants and cafes were open in the area, catering to the tons and tons of tourists that seemed to be everywhere. I guess at least that much of the news is true! The day was beautiful, the city was quietly humming, and one had the feeling that – for this one special afternoon - everything was right in the world.
 
(I didn’t mention the midnight firecrackers in the packed churchyard the night before and the stray dog that was going out-of-his-mind barking his little head off. It would just ruin the moment.)
 
Xronia polla to all!
 
Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…