I feel it’s one of the defining ‘Athens centre’ districts, and has remained uniquely authentic and still somewhat off most tourist maps.  So I jumped at the invitation to join a group of friends on a photography walk of Psirri. We grabbed cameras and tripods and set out to wander the little side streets of the neighbourhood on a warm but overcast Saturday afternoon.

Past the main streets of the area, the more obvious with the little tavernas and bars, we wandered onto a series of streets and alleys that are covered in graffiti – the kind of grafitti one actually enjoys and wants to photograph. Psirri is the definition of street art. It’s grungy and shabby-chic, but also completely authentic and absolutely ‘local’.

Later, we stopped for a drink – and in wintertime Psirri one must order oinomelo or it’s stronger cousin rakomelo. This is wine or raki, sweetened with honey, and served steaming hot. A greek version of glüwein? Perhaps, but rakomelo is oh-so-Psirri.

We sat at Liosporos, one of those places I pass every time I’m in Psirri, but have never been in. I loved it. Small, cute, quaint, grungy enough to be authentic and styled enough to be comfortable. Nice vibe, good music, warm rakomelo.

Even if you think you know it well, check out Psirri – wander past the main streets, get lost, be brave – and be rewarded with one of Athens coolest neighbourhoods.

If nothing else, go for the rakomelo.

Liosporos
http://psirri.gr/liosporos/en/index.html
Miaouli 24
210 331 1841

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

So I love it when I get a list that includes Greece or Athens (in the spirit of ‘best of’ not ‘worst of’!), and I especially like to see what others see as ‘top’ in Athens…

Time has a number of City Guides posted online – their 10 Things To Do in Athens list is pretty straight-forward and uncontroversial:

10. Monastiraki Flea Market

9. Gazi

8. Thiseion outdoor cinema

7. Mount Lycabettus

6. Benaki Museum, Pireos Street Annex

5. Byzantino jewelry shop in Plaka

4. Acropolis museum restaurant

3. Acropolis

2. Anafiotika

1. Ancient Agora

The Guardian’s list of 10 Great Things to do in Athens is even more interesting, with several places to eat & drink:

1. Alternative Tours of Athens - walks organised by a collective of local photographers, artists, writers, musicians, designers and architects to see another side of Athens. There are tours on photography, street art, social movements, architecture, etc.

2. Food Str

3. Cafe Avissinia

4. Lake Vouliagmeni

5. Gazarte

6. Skoufia Taverna

7. Thea Terrace Bar, Central Hotel

8. The Art Foundation

9. Kokkinos Lotos

10. (Strangely, this Top 10 list only shows 9 items… go figure.)

USA Today has a site dedicated to Top 10 Lists – here’s what they say about Athens’ Top 10 Best Value Restaurants (most of which I’ve never heard of…):

10. Olymbos Naousa

9. Derlicatessen

8. Bakalomagazo

7. New York Sandwiches

6. Oxo Nou

5. Makalo

4. Ama Lachi

3. The Holy Goat

2. Paella Barcelona

1. Au Grand Zinc

Time Magazine – Athens City Guide http://content.time.com/time/travel/cityguide/article/0,31489,1942641_1942848,00.html?iid=perma_share

The Guardian - 10 Great Things to do in Athens http://www.theguardian.com/travel/2014/sep/14/10-great-things-to-do-athens-greece

Alternative Tours of Athens, +30 210 322 6713, http://atathens.org

USA Today 10 Best, http://www.10best.com/destinations/greece/athens/restaurants/best-value/

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

So it was with great interest that I picked up a copy of the in-flight magazine of Swiss airways on a recent work trip. The headline: 'Athens: Mother of all cities’

Clearly these articles are written to entice travellers to visit this lucrative Swiss airways destination. They are marketing pieces. But what exactly would a Swiss author see as enticing about Athens?

I'm going to re-write a few key phrases from the piece here - and hope that this isn’t breaking any laws! The full article can be seen linked below...

According to Swiss, ‘The Athenians virtually invented urban life, and we can still learn from them today’.  They say that Athens remains a model of urbanity. Because the ‘warm climate and the friendliness of the locals make make Athens a place where life spills out of the homes, shops and thousands of bars and restaurants and onto the streets, however narrow they may be. Because it’s a city that buzzes almost around the clock. And because a new generation has taken the recent crises as a chance to reaffirm, with almost Olympian zeal, the great Greek triumphs of the past: hospitality, culinary variety, strong coffee and fine wine!’

They mention the places that we all know – Plaka, Psirri, National Gardens, rooftop restaurants, bars, and obviously the acropolis.

In an interview with Ted Lelekas (telegourmet.org), he answers the question ‘Why Athens?’  His answer: The nightlife. The sensuality. The friendliness. The wine.

I'd say they pretty much 'got it'. Athens is all of that, and it’s not just ‘marketing puff’ to say so.

Until next week,

Jack

Swiss Magazine (Athens, November 2014):
http://www.swiss.com/CMSContent/web/SiteCollectionDocuments/SWISS-Magazine/2014/SWISS-Magazine-November.pdf

Interview with Ted Lelekas: http://www.swiss.com/CMSContent/web/SiteCollectionDocuments/SWISS-Magazine/2014/SWISS-Magazine-November-Talk.pdf

Check out the Swiss City Guide for Athens here: http://www.swiss.com/CMSContent/web/SiteCollectionDocuments/SWISS-Magazine/2014/SWISS-Magazine-November-City-Guide.pdf

 

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

As the saying goes, Mens sana in corpore sano “a healthy mind in a healthy body”, my daily routine started off with training at the Zirineio Stadium in Kifissia for a morning work out which allowed plenty of freedom for the remainder of the day.  My evenings, on the other hand, were spent exploring the centre of Athens once again.

Our first stop usually included Monastiraki and the various shops in the vicinity. We usually like to visit the shops that carry military equipment, just to have a peek. All the walking made our stomachs rumble and so decided to grab a bite at ‘A for Athens’. With the priceless view, we enjoyed dinner and then hopped on the train bound for Kifissia.

A few days later, a friend invited us to “Spiti” in Filothei to have dinner and to celebrate her birthday.  Prior to this, I had not heard of this restaurant but in the end turned out to be a real treat. Although it was a Thursday evening and quite a small restaurant, it was squirming with people of all ages. This was probably because of the tasty food and the logical prices. A definite must for something new!

This My Week In Athens post was provided by Thanasi - a sixteen year old high school student living in Athens.

For me, taking a ‘creative’ class – photography, art, cooking– is as much about improving my skills as it is about seeing the city in a different way…  Even many of the walking tours available in Athens (art walks, graffiti walks, nature walks) are well worth the cost, in terms of seeing the city and being re-inspired by the new corners and new stories you get to hear. It’s as easy as Googling “Athens walking tours” – there are tons of interesting options! And if you have some extra cash to burn, why not hop on a Segway or an e-bike and see Athens from a different perspective – literally. I try not to miss a chance to have one of these experiences whenever the opportunity (and the time and the money) allows.

After the fun photo shoots of the morning, I walked over to the Hip Café near Syntagma for a bite of brunch. Where I come from, brunch is a required weekend ritual. In Athens, it is definitely a growing phenomenon.

I hadn’t been to Hip Café for a long time, but having spent the morning in ‘classical’ Athens, it was great to slide into a comfortable chair in a decidedly modern side of the city. Music in the background, busy and buzzing with locals and expats, friendly service, good food, clean bathrooms (!), ‘chilled out’ interior – this is a place that is easy to be in, a really relaxed way to spend a weekend morning…

Their delicious menu has expanded a lot since I was there last – but thankfully they’ve still got Saturday morning’s best medicine (pancakes!), delicious yoghurt inventions, plus a lot of super healthy options (quinoa/lentil salad). I sat with my classmate in the window seat, watching the afternoon shoppers walking by.

Even on a rainy Saturday, Athens is full of surprises and full of inspiration – and very often full of honey and carbs. Sunday was spent at the gym.

Hip Café
26 Mitropoleos St., Syntagma
+30 213 015 4698
http://hipcafe.gr/

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

Of course, we have also all seen the utter creativity of Athenian drivers, in making their Renaults fit in the most awkward of spaces, or in discovering space where I am fairly sure there was no space before. Thus, when I returned from a leisurely coffee on Saturday afternoon, I was not so shocked to find a little grey Toyota sticking out diagonally from the corner, having parked nose-first up on the curb, blocking the sidewalk completely, blocking the other cars from leaving, and generally proving the miraculous skill and total arrogance of certain drivers. It was also bold to the point of offense, and (I assume) completely illegal.

Here comes the good part: on the front windshield someone had stuck a bright orange sticker that read in Greek 'Είμαι γάϊδαρος! Παρκάρω όπου γουστάρω' ('Ι am a donkey (read: jack*ss), Ι park wherever Ι please') - with a cartoon drawing of a smiling donkey sitting in a car.

This brought a huge smile to my face! Finally someone taking action against parking hoodlums, someone saying exactly what we are all thinking, in bold neon orange.

In this city of seemingly low accountability and precious few consequences (especially concerning cars and parking), this 'sticker shaming' movement is better than the alternative - the alternative being 'nothing'. So I snapped a photo and posted it to my Facebook. A couple hours later, the car was gone and the sticker was not thrown on the ground, as I had expected it would be. I'm hoping the driver got the message and perhaps was showing the sticker to his/her friends... Who am I kidding, he probably didn't even notice it on the windshield...

I'm not sure if this 'public ridicule' works, nor how widespread this practice is in Athens. Something tells me that 'public shaming' actually has an an effect in this culture - but if so, then maybe an orange sticker doesn't go far enough....

I'm less interested in the outcome (the 'driver'), than in the original action (the 'stick-er'). In an economic and social climate where the state does not/cannot take effective action on all fronts, this is a sign of thinking outside the box, of an 'entrepreneurial' mindset, of making change from the bottom-up, of creative protest, without violence or extremes. It is really a small action in the grand scheme of change, but it's different than what came before and I think its great.

So fair warning: if you are looking for parking in Athens, be careful how creative you are, lest you be stuck with a jack*ss on your windshield.

Until next week,

Jack
 

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

As my sister’s name day was coming up, we decided to have a family night and enjoyed the traditional American cuisine of  ‘TGIF’ (TGI Friday's).  Although the restaurant was packed, it was worth the wait and of course, what better way to digest than to go for a lovely stroll. A relaxing walk was the perfect recipe to unwind from a busy week. One of my favourite past time events is to admire the city-like boats that allow me to travel in the big blue sea without stepping foot off the ground. The creative names of the yachts take me from country to country, city to city all around the globe in a matter of minutes.

Our evening came to an end with a tantalizing mango flavoured frozen yogurt from ‘Chillbox’ which had somewhat of a ‘brain-freeze’ effect. It made my feet come back down to earth subsequent to the majestic journey of travelling the world. That’s one of the beauties of Athens, there is something for everyone whether it’s dining, entertainment, dancing or even visiting this tropical like fantasy.  Back to life – back to reality….time for bed it was, with a bit of optimism that I would be fortunate enough to continue my journeys that night even in my dreams!
 

This My Week In Athens post was provided by Thanasi - a sixteen year old high school student living in Athens.
 

Hi, my name is Thanasi and I'm a sixteen year old high school student. Thanks for the space, Jack! 

Due to the fact that last weekend I wasn’t in Athens, but on the tip of Mount Menalo on an International Award trip, (a.k.a. camping for survival). I had already premeditated that the weekend after would be one to have fun.  Fall is definitely in the air but that is no reason not to stay outdoors and enjoy the cool, crisp evening in the northern suburbs.

So, the hoodie came into the picture, and off with my mates I was bound for Kifissia. This was, of course, after completing all assigned homework that had not been done during the week (my mother will read this). I met up with a few friends for coffee in Kifissia at the world renowned ‘Starbucks’.  As night was falling we decided to eat at ‘Boutique Kalamaki’ in which in the end, met all of our expectations.  There’s nothing like some fast food protein to satisfy your taste buds.

Whilst we’re getting to break it up, I received a phone call from a friend who informed us that he would be playing music that evening - this indeed got us all excited which meant that we weren’t going to call it a night just yet. Fortunately, he was playing DJ at ‘Look Up’ in Nea Erythrea which was having its closing event for the season. Although there was a bittersweet feeling -the farewell of summer and the welcoming of winter, the sounds of R& B were a delight.

No matter the season, rain or shine, the northern suburbs have what it takes to fulfill whatever appetite, even for an indecisive teenager!

Returning late Friday night meant I was ready for a fun night out on Saturday… A few phone calls later, plans were hatched. Well, one small plan at least. We would meet at Riza, our sure-bet tsipouradiko in Thiseio, for a lite bite. But this being Athens, and the post-summer city nightlife positively buzzing, this plan quickly expanded.

Having satisfied our stomachs, and with the warm night still young, we decided to move on. We walked over to six d.o.g.s. in Monastiraki and had a quick drink in the energized, ‘standing room only’ vibe in the cool garden space… This is a very popular place, day or night – and with good reason.

Next stop: TAF in Monastiraki. This is for those who love unmarked doorways in empty alleyways, that open onto unexpectedly cool interior courtyards... Cool music, friendly vibe, graffiti-chic art spaces and a refreshingly adult crowd. Highly recommend.

On our way to TAF, we noticed a sign for a roof-top space called Couleur Locale. It’s literally next door to TAF, through a small stoa, past the tiny taverna, and up to the roof via the elevator. This place opened just over a month ago, and is a wide-open, casual bar space – up-beat dance music, great drinks list and some delicious chef-made food choices. It’s also quite a large space, and doesn’t yet get too busy. Anyone else tired of not finding a table at 360 or A for Athens?

One thing is for sure: Athens in autumn doesn’t force anyone indoors. While many of my Canadian friends are waking up to near-zero temperatures, I will ‘have another round, please!’, and might even leave my jacket at home…

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

I was at a friend’s house over the weekend, for an ‘end of summer’ party. Great people, music, drinks, nice vibe… With a mix of expats and locals, the conversations invariable steered to why are you here, what do you think of Athens, the love/hate list that each of us carries, no matter where we live…

One such discussion was about the various ‘scenes’ of Athens – is there a hippie scene? Has the foodie scene come here? Are there any hipsters? What about the gay scene?  I wasn’t sure what to answer, since for me the answer is equally ‘yes’ and ‘no’. What I came up with is that those ‘scenes’ seem to be more prevalent, and more clearly delineated, in a more ‘western’, perhaps more North American context, and while there are very clear elements of those ‘scenes’ here, Athens and Athenians are less likely to be defined by such social sub-groups.

Athens is a centuries-old city, with a culture that is more deep than it is broad, having brewed for thousands of years across empires and invasions, cultures and religions. It is a place equally eastern and western, with a long history that has as much to do with the Near and Middle East as it has with Western Europe.  There is a strong definition of self here, and being Greek in itself forms a big part of that. In other places, that over-riding cultural identity is not as present, and sub-cultural affiliation is more prevalent… Maybe it’s similar in Italy or Lebanon? Clearly I’m no anthropologist or sociologist, but this was what went spinning through my head on Saturday night. 

And then I saw this video, where – it seems to me – we can see how much has not changed among all the things that have changed. I mean the essence of the video – the spirit of the city - for me, is clear in the video. And it’s the same essence I feel today.

Or maybe it was the wine. 

What do you think? Watch here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HqzEjdn4yQ

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…